Hotel Yoshihara

The location was the only good part of my three-night stay. The building facade is run down, and when I entered the so-called hotel lobby, no one was at the front desk. The lights in the waiting hall and corridor were off, and so was the air conditioning. There was a really bad, unbearable stench around the front desk and waiting area. I had to call out loudly before anyone from the front desk came. They simply handed me the room key. The passageway to the second floor was also dark and had no air conditioning, and the bad smell continued from the lobby up there. The room was very bare: no complimentary bottled water, just two small bath towels and face towels, and no towel hangers. The toilet was separate from the bathroom. The bathroom amenities were primitive, hard to believe. There was no turndown service, and I had to move the furniture in the middle of the room myself to set up the tatami bed. The mattress was worn out, and I could feel my bones against the floor even with it underneath me. The pillows were old and uncomfortable. It was a nightmare. I could say more, but I’ll stop there. I booked through CTrip, which rated the hotel 9.2, so don’t be misled by that score. Worst of all, the front desk wanted cash, even though that wasn’t mentioned in my CTrip reservation. They took the cash but gave me no receipt until I insisted, and then they reluctantly provided one. I don’t find CTrip reliable or trustworthy. Readers, stay at your own peril.

We came from far away for a sports trip, but there was no seafood, which was what I’d normally expect in Hokuriku. The meal seemed like supermarket prepared dishes piled together. The dining room was nearly full, with other groups there, and everyone had the same menu. At 10,000 yen per person, it might count as cheap by city prices or current standards, but I won’t stay here again.

If you’re after somewhere stylish, this isn’t the place. It’s a real Showa-era inn, with an old building and facilities, so I can see why reviews are mixed. Still, the room air conditioning and toilet were new, and I was comfortable. The food was delicious: no showy hassun like at modern inns, just well-made dishes, with hot food served fresh. It’s a valuable place to experience a genuine Showa-era atmosphere.

The building’s unusual layout uses its different levels to give a sense of privacy. The lighting is kept low throughout, making the place dim and soothing for a tired body and mind after a day of travel. The baths in the rooms have only cold water, with no hot water, so you can treat them as a sort of waterfall meditation. Another bath has a great view from the corridor, and since everything but the face is exposed, there’s the added possibility of seeing someone naked. The service was in keeping with the price, so the value seemed reasonable.