Hayato Ryokan

The young owner is working hard ♪, and I feel like flying over right now for another soak. What makes this place special is the water: it flows straight from the source into a modest-sized tub, so it feels incredibly fresh. For the bath's size, the flow is probably the best in Yutagawa Onsen. A good hot spring doesn't need a grand view or an outdoor bath.

I was glad to finally visit after reading about the place in a hot spring enthusiast's guidebook, and I came with the Kyun Pass. The young owner seemed kind and helpful. This is a lovely little inn, and the food was homemade and delicious. The hot spring water flowed freely, though I wished the bath were a bit bigger. They also showed me the public bath across the street, which has free-flowing water too. I felt a little envious of the locals. It felt more like visiting a neighborhood inn than going away on holiday, so I didn't get as much of a vacation feeling. Still, it was a very good place to stay. The pillows were another downside: they were too full of buckwheat hulls, too high, and uncomfortable. Pillows matter, and they're hard to adjust.

At Hayato Ryokan, the dish that stayed with me most was the Dongara-jiru, a soup made with seasonal winter cod. Its rich broth was unforgettable. I also enjoyed several other local Yamagata dishes. The natural hot spring water flowed generously into the bath, and I loved hearing it spill over whenever I got in. One soak a day wasn't enough, so I went twice at night and again in the morning. The inn is reasonably priced and good value. It isn't luxurious, but it's just right if you want good food and a genuine natural hot spring.

I booked a room without meals, mainly to try the bath, and the water quality was obvious as soon as I poured it over myself. It was lukewarm and very gentle, with a silky feeling unlike anything I'd experienced before. I found it incredibly relaxing. Yudagawa Onsen distributes water from one source to each inn and public bathhouse. Considering how close this bath is to the source and its size, it seems to have the best water. I'll go back to make sure!