Kakeyu Onsen Tsuruya Ryokan

What a hidden gem. We had the hot spring to ourselves and could really relax in it. The man there seems to be qualified, and gave us passionate advice about the springs. If you've got time, it's a lovely way to unwind and soothe yourself. I recommend it. And I miss the telephone! Dialing the numbers was so much fun that I had to take photos.

First visit, March 29, 2026. I went to this atmospheric ryokan for a day visit to the hot spring, which cost 600 yen per person. The owner gave us an explanation that lasted a full 20 minutes before we could get in. There's no coin locker, so you leave valuables at reception. It seems you can use the mixed bath if you show ID. The water was very lukewarm, maybe below 40°C, but warm enough to lie in the reclining bath for ages. The outdoor bath was so cold I couldn't get in.

The inn sits in a great spot by the mountain stream, close to Monju-no-Yu. Our room was roomy enough for two, with a toilet, sink, electric kettle, and a veranda looking over the water. We stayed one night as a couple and did some of our own meals. There are different room and stay plans, so I'd suggest calling to confirm the details before booking. Places with kitchens for self-catering are rare now, and I hope this one keeps going. We ate dinner at the nearby soba place "Tatsumiya". For breakfast, I ordered rice, miso soup, and pickles for 600 yen, then had them with natto and furikake I'd brought. It wasn't really cooking, I guess. The inn is large and impressive, though only part of it seemed to be operating. Maybe staffing is limited or renovation of the old rooms is behind, but there were only a few couples there on Saturday, and we didn't see inbound tourists. That meant we had the hot spring to ourselves each time. There are many baths, including mixed baths, rental baths for 200 yen, and private baths. We went in eight times during our one night. My favorite was the mixed-gender outdoor bath. We didn't see Moo-chan the flying squirrel, but at night the lit-up Monjudo Hall across the mountain stream made for a mystical, open view. The owner, Mr. S, is a qualified professional and clearly loves hot springs, especially Shikayu Onsen. He talks at length and explains how to bathe in detail, with real enthusiasm. He also knows a lot about local subjects and history, and has plenty to say when you ask. That kind of interaction feels rare these days, and I enjoyed it.

The baths and food were good, but getting into the room was a frustrating start. Nobody came to greet us when we arrived, and we waited 30 minutes at the front desk. They seemed unprepared to process the reservation, and it took nearly an hour before we could go to our room. We booked through a travel site, whose plan description made it sound as though matsutake mushrooms came with dinner. They were actually an optional extra, so the listing was misleading. After we got home, we also realized the inn hadn't applied the discount from the travel-site points we'd used.