Ryokan Hanaya

The Taisho-era romantic feel comes from the palace carpenters' design and furnishings that have been carefully used for generations. Each room has its own layout, so every visit can feel different. Founded in 1917, this long-established hotel has almost all of its buildings registered as tangible cultural properties. Corridors connect the many buildings spread across the vast grounds.

The outdoor and indoor onsens were hot, in great condition, and just what we needed after skiing up north. We slept incredibly well on comfortable futons. The food was local, tasty, and served in generous portions. This was a truly special stay at a fairly large traditional ryokan, a little off the beaten track. We speak very little Japanese, but the hosts were warm and generous, and we managed to get past the language barriers together. Great value for what they provided.

The onsen water is silky, too. The rooms have a vintage atmosphere that comes naturally from their tasteful decor and the passage of time. If you love classic Japanese interior design, the house tour is a must.

The guests made the stay feel worse than it needed to be. They seemed to be mostly retirees, with a few younger couples and families, and some drank too much, got loud in the dining room and baths, and were rude to the staff. Staff service was uneven too. The doorman and valet gave absolutely the best service, while others came across as unenthusiastic, robotic, or timid. Dinner was fine, even very good apart from one awful course, but it arrived very slowly. The courses were mostly typical fare, including sushi, which felt odd so far from the ocean. I wish they'd asked about dining preferences ahead of time and offered more regional dishes. Maybe they were simply catering to their usual guests. I don't think it's the right place for children. The baths were all quite hot for me. The outdoor one was the most comfortable temperature, while the marble baths were the most interesting. You can just soak your legs if the water is too hot. Men and women have different time slots for using the three baths. On the good side, this historic building has been lovingly maintained and makes you feel like you've gone back a hundred years. Small flaws like the crack in the wash basin add to the atmosphere. Our fairly standard room in the main building had enough space for two, with futons on the tatami at night. There was a little sitting spot to read and drink tea while looking at trees full of birds. The room also had a TV, refrigerator, and toilet, but no shower or bath. The hallways squeak a bit, though it didn't bother us. The dining room, lobby, and garden have the same atmospheric feel. I had been looking forward to staying here for years, and maybe that made me judge it more harshly. The more expensive rooms seem to have baths and in-room dining. If you're very interested in history and architecture and can live with typical Japanese-style service, it's probably worth going once. Otherwise, there are better ryokan experiences.