Minshuku Yuraku

I came alone for three nights, mainly for the high-quality hot spring water that flows freely. At 9,500 yen a night for two meals, it felt cheap. The proprietress is around 80 and runs the inn on her own. She can manage only two or three groups a day, and more than four people is too much work for her. So I didn’t expect much service, especially the meals, which online reviews call home-style cooking. But yes, it’s home-style, and it’s incredibly good. You can tell she cares about serving guests the best food she can, even with the low price and doing everything herself. The menu changed a little each of the three nights. I later found out she can vary it through the fourth day. She loves cooking and chooses dishes based on her mood and what she can buy that day. Roast beef seems to be a regular dinner item on the first day. We also finished the whole pot of chestnut rice made with chestnuts she’d received as a gift. On the second night I was glad to get beef stew, though it was more like soup than a main course. The chicken on the third night was delicious and hearty, and there was teriyaki yellowtail too. Dessert came every day. Since I’d told them beforehand I can’t eat fruit, I often got coffee jelly instead. Breakfast was more satisfying than at most hot spring inns. The salads were generous, and Shinshu yogurt and coffee came with every meal. I don’t know if the salmon was Shinshu salmon, but the grilled salmon was delicious both times it was served. The dining area by the entrance, right next to reception, surprised me at first. I soon got used to eating side by side with the other two guests while the TV was on, mostly NHK. The room was clean and comfortable for an inn, and the lukewarm bath was fantastic. There were just two groups including mine, so we always had both baths to ourselves. Of all the hot spring inns where I’ve stayed alone, this one was the most relaxing. I hope the proprietress stays healthy for a long time.

Reservations are by phone only, and day-use bathing isn’t available. This old inn is run by an elderly grandmother on her own, with a homely feel like going back to her house. Footsteps carry through the building, but it’s clean. The toilets are shared, and the Wi-Fi is surprisingly good. Both breakfast and dinner are delicious, with plenty of dishes that feel like home cooking. There’s a large and a small bath, both lukewarm and almost like having them to yourself. It gets a bit chilly in autumn, but you can ask them to heat the water. It’s wonderfully comfortable to soak in for a long time. A good fit if you’re used to guesthouses and want a hot spring stay.

My mother and I were given separate rooms, both with air conditioning, though one room’s unit was a little weak. Yukata robes, towels, toothbrushes, and Wi-Fi were provided. The inn is an old building run by an elderly landlady, with the feel of visiting your grandma in the countryside. Rooms are upstairs, while the dining area, baths, and toilet are on the first floor. The stairs are narrow and steep. There’s a rest space on what seemed to be a mezzanine with drip coffee and other drinks, water servers on the first and mezzanine floors, and a shared fridge in the upstairs hallway. We visited on a hot day in August. Reisenji Onsen is a small resort with just four inns and one public bath. The warm water suited the summer heat, and it wasn’t crowded, so it felt like a hidden gem. The bus from Ueda Station took about an hour, and the landlady picked me up at the nearest stop. There are two baths, one large and one small, with signs for men and women at the entrance. We were the only other female guests that day, so we could use them as often as we liked. The mild, warm water flowed freely and felt so good I accidentally fell asleep during my morning soak, lol. I thought we’d eat alongside the men in the dining area just inside the entrance, but our meals were set up at the back near the baths. Each area had a TV. The landlady is a great cook. Both dinner and breakfast were delicious, especially the dinner soup with vegetables like okra. I’d wanted to try this place since finding it online and was thrilled. 😋 She’s getting older and hopes to retire soon, though regular guests seem to want her to continue. I’d hate to see such a lovely inn disappear. I hope she stays healthy, and thanks for looking after us.

The hostess was so lovely and comforting that I booked another stay for next month, lol. The food was delicious too, especially the miso soup in the morning, which warmed my soul. The hot water felt so good I lost count of how many times I got in. There was a set bathing time, but they said it was fine to soak in the unheated water if I didn’t mind.