Ryokan Katsuraso

I stayed here two years ago and had been wanting to return. The food is delicious, with plenty of local dishes, and the spring water flows straight from the source. There are three private baths, with a light sulfur smell and mineral deposits floating in the water. The fourth-generation owner has an old inn, but it’s clean and has had small improvements here and there. The rooms have bidet toilets, though they’re quite small, which is a minor drawback. I don’t think you’ll regret staying here. It’s a lovely ryokan!

It’s easy to explore nearby places like Kitamuki Kannon from here. The innkeepers give guests plenty of space, so it’s relaxing and seems especially suited to people traveling on their own rather than groups. The facilities feel a little retro, but they’re well kept, and the hot spring water is excellent, just as you’d expect in Bessho Onsen. The food was fine, neither especially good nor bad.

I liked the spinach and sesame tofu, which made good use of the dashi, and the stock in the main course was excellent. Still, many dishes, starting with the appetizers, were seasoned heavily with miso, salt, and sugar, and that got tiring. The sashimi included amberjack as well as river fish; I think river fish alone would have worked. I was looking forward to dinner, but the courses came out quickly. Since it’s clear a small staff is preparing everything, starting dinner at 6pm might give guests more time to enjoy the meal. The room felt private, and the hot spring was excellent. The bathroom seemed fine at night, though bright morning sunlight made it look a bit dated. The guest rooms and service seemed thoughtfully arranged. There were lots of wines and sake on the list, but I found them hard to pair with the food. The menu changes daily, so maybe I just caught an unusual day. Mercian Wanko was available, but at 4,200 yen a glass and mostly offered by the glass, ordering a bottle was difficult.

The proprietress and staff were so kind, and I’d love to return for another restful stay. The old hot spring inn has plenty of charm and history, and we tried three kinds of baths. Everything we ate, from vegetables to meat and fish, was fresh and tasty. The peaceful atmosphere made it easy to forget everyday life. Kitamuki Kannon temple and a gelato shop are close by, which also makes the area nice for families.