Ikuha Bettei Toraya

I’ll come back when it’s warmer. Ukiha felt so peaceful, quiet, and beautiful, and the stay was incredibly healing. The owner was so kind, and I’m really grateful to him and to the mother who made breakfast. Try the nearby bakery and cafe too, they’re delicious. I stayed in the Chikiri Private Room on the second floor. It’s a clean, nice room with tatami instead of a bed. The stairs are steep, so take care. The futon and blanket are very thick, but winter nights get extremely cold. You’ll need to leave the heater on when you’re in, and I’d bring an electric blanket for sleeping. The stream beside the room has a lovely, mellow sound. There’s one shared bathroom and one shared toilet on the first floor. They’re unisex but clean. Book breakfast ahead if you can. The mother’s burdock meat rice, vegetable sides, fried tofu, and miso soup were absolutely delicious, just like Japanese home cooking. It was a bit chilly, but breakfast in the garden-facing first-floor room, lit by a kerosene stove, was fantastic. For parking, leave your car at the Ukiha Tourist Information Center and walk about 500 meters. It’s free.

I liked being able to walk to the station and nearby restaurants and bars, and the contactless check-in and check-out were handy. But the smell of the old wooden house and tatami was awful when I entered the room. I sometimes couldn’t sleep because I heard people talking and moving around next door and upstairs, along with cars on the road. The bed was hard, and my back hurt afterward. Around nine guests shared one toilet, and there was only one shower. I could put up with the place if it cost under 5,000 yen a day. At a higher price, I don’t think it’s worth the inconvenience, stress, lost sleep, and getting sick.

The stream’s sound from the accommodation and the villagers’ warm welcome when I opened the door put me in a good mood. The host was kind and helpful, sharing all sorts of tips, which made the stay comfortable. The stairs were steep and carrying luggage up to the second floor was tiring, but the 150-year-old building has been beautifully renovated into a classic, elegant place. The first floor is also a restaurant, so I recommend stopping in. I’d love to visit again when the weather gets warmer.

I stayed in a first-floor double room, and it was nice to sit in the living room with tea. Nearby restaurants and an izakaya called Isokichi were very convenient. The house has an old-world charm, and the male owner kindly explained things through a translator. It’s about a 15-minute walk from Chikuko Yoshii Station. The only noise I noticed was passing traffic, which wasn’t a big bother. Since there’s no bathroom in the room, it was a hassle to cross the living room to get there late at night.