The Grand Spa Nandaimon - Hostel

From JR Utsunomiya Station it's only a short walk, and the 90-minute Thursday pass cost 850 yen, which felt like good value. It covered several baths, a sauna and a steam room. I liked the range of baths, including two cold plunges at different temperatures, and the sauna was large. The Iwaizumi milk products they sell are really tasty. I could easily spend more than two or three hours bathing here, and would like to stay overnight next time I'm in Tochigi.

By the end I felt completely refreshed after trying all the baths with their different aromas. The temperatures run from 5 degrees up to 42, or 80 in the sauna. Save some money for the second locker room, since payment comes at the end.

When I'm in the mood for gyoza, Utsunomiya is a great city to wander around. A natural hot spring with free-flowing water is just a short walk from the station, and one of the cold baths drops below 6°C, which you don't come across every day. If this place were overseas, I'd call it a terme and happily go out of my way for it.

I've been here twice now and already can't wait to come back. There are loads of baths, from herbal, Korean ginseng and aroma baths to outdoor ones, plus a pool where you can swim naked, haha. The different saunas are nice too, and it's cheap. The parking next to the Sento is free. If you're staying overnight, I recommend a capsule box. It's quiet and has a bed.