Terayama Kosen

The road is narrow and the place is a little tucked away, so a large car could have trouble getting there. Small cars and motorcycles are fine, though even then, passing oncoming traffic can be difficult. Google Maps gave me different routes going and coming back, and following its directions may help avoid meeting traffic on the narrow stretches. The inn is very close to Yaita roadside station and offers day bathing. The private tub is small, which has its own charm. The water is a cloudy reddish brown from the iron. It reminded me of Aimagawa Onsen, which has a similar iron-rich, cloudy spring, and it’s the kind of water you don’t find everywhere. Hot-spring fans may enjoy it. Since it’s a mineral spring, if the water feels lukewarm, press the bathroom buzzer and ask the proprietress to heat it again.

The day-use bath costs 600 yen, and I thought it was well worth it. The iron-rich water is reddish brown and leaves your skin feeling incredibly smooth and comfortable almost as soon as you get in. It’s said to help with neuralgia, rheumatism, digestive and gynecological conditions, diabetes, and atopic dermatitis. This historic hot-spring inn has been around for over 160 years, tucked at the end of a narrow mountain road where cars can’t pass each other. The current building was rebuilt around 40 years ago and has been carefully maintained. The wood on the stairs and in the corridors is smooth and gleaming. I was surprised by how old-fashioned the inside feels, especially this far up in the mountains. Next time, I’d like to visit in another season and try Terayama Onsen’s home-grown rice and vegetables, along with its homemade cooking.

You can ask for the water temperature to be adjusted, so it’s possible to soak at just the right heat. The spring is full of iron, and the water leaves your skin feeling squeaky clean. The bath is small, and this mineral spring probably won’t suit everyone. But if you’re into rustic hot springs, the atmosphere is hard to resist. The proprietress is wonderful too, one reason the long drive down that narrow road feels worthwhile.

I’d never tried a mineral spring before, and I’m glad I went. There were two private baths, a big one and a small one, and as someone who loves free-flowing hot springs, I was very happy with them. Even though I was only visiting, the proprietress made me tea, which was so kind. The spring’s scent stayed on my body afterward. It’s one of Yaita’s three major mineral springs.