Onogawa Onsen Hojunoyu

The bath at Onogawa Onsen looks out over the mountains, with the town below. It was quiet, peaceful, and laid-back, a perfect setting for my first Onsen experience. I'd highly recommend it. The snowy peaks might make the view even more extraordinary in winter. Day passes are available for people not staying at the hotel, which was really convenient.

The vegan breakfasts were a real highlight, generous Japanese meals made almost entirely with local ingredients. The staff clearly understand vegan needs, and they were some of the best breakfasts I’ve had. There’s a recently refurbished cafe on the ground floor with a lovely rustic feel, plus a terrace footbath and more great scenery. The onsen is fantastic too. My room on the third floor was spacious and in a corner, which made it a pleasure to stay in. Some of the rooms feel a little dated, but the place still felt like a home away from home in Onogawa Onsen, with views across the village and the river running through it.

The scenery was lovely.

The private open-air bath was a convenient option for a day visit. You can use it without booking whenever it’s free, and 2,200 yen for an hour seemed fair. The water felt great, with the atmosphere you’d expect at Onogawa Onsen, and soaking in the free-flowing spring was very relaxing. The bath is up on a hill, so there’s a broad view over the hot spring town, but the surrounding inns and buildings can also see right in. That openness may bother some people, especially women, so privacy-minded visitors should know in advance. A bit more greenery would help. You’ll need to bring shampoo, soap, and other toiletries, and there’s no hair dryer or outlet. For the price, though, it’s a satisfying way to enjoy a private hot spring without spending too much.