Yurari

The Japan Sea view was fantastic. Winter made the stay especially memorable, with the fierce high tide, powder snow, and lovely hot springs.

I stopped at Fukura Onsen Chokaiso on an autumn drive north, after a long morning on the road. Mount Chokai came into view as I followed the Shonai breeze, and Fukura, in Yuza Town, Yamagata Prefecture, felt like a quiet place to pause. National Route 7 runs nearby, and the air had that nostalgic port-town smell, with a light breeze from the Sea of Japan. The wooden building felt warm and welcoming, a little like a mountain lodge, with a faint wood scent and steam rising outside. Inside, the lobby was spacious and the staff greeted me with warm smiles. They said day visitors could use the bath, so I bought a ticket from the vending machine. The changing room was clean and bright, and I could see the mountains starting to turn autumn colors through the window. The water was soft on my skin, and soaking in the spacious indoor bath felt soothing after the drive. It was a little lukewarm, just comfortable enough to stay in. The spring is sodium-calcium chloride water, and I felt my skin getting moisturized as I bathed. Through the glass I could see Mount Chokai's ridgeline and sunlight on the water. It was quiet except for the occasional sound of water and a distant train. From the open-air bath, I could see the middle of Mount Chokai and the Fukiura townscape below. Sea air and the scent of mountain greenery mixed together. After bathing I had a cold local cider in the relaxation area. The local Mount Chokai Spring Water Cider was lightly sweet, with refreshing fizz. The shop nearby had regional items like Shonai Sand Dune Melon Jelly and Mount Chokai Natural Water. I also had the Fried Rock Oyster Set Meal at the restaurant on the premises. The crispy coating gave way to juicy oysters, a real taste of the Shonai sea. Having seafood and mountain hot springs in one stop felt like a treat. A short drive took me to Fukiura Port, where fishing boats were slowly returning as the sun set. The sea turned gold, with Mount Chokai's silhouette in the distance. I noticed the town's quiet rhythm in a way I might have missed just passing through. The spring steam, sea air, and warm voices of local people made the day feel gently wrapped up. By the time I got back to the car, the sun was down and stars were coming out. Fukiura's air was clear, and the night breeze felt good against my skin after the bath. Heading to my next destination, I looked back and saw the lights of the hot spring at Mount Chokai's foot shining softly, like a farewell.

The hotel is clean and reasonably priced, with a hot spring bath, and it's only a short walk from the station. Breakfast was good, and the front desk staff were helpful. There's also an attached massage parlor, inexpensive and with skilled therapists.

We were treated so well. Both dinner and breakfast were delicious, and the hot springs were great. They even had a free souvenir fair.