Bardenya Soho

After hiking up Zao, I stopped by for a day visit. The onsen was excellent, with indoor and outdoor baths, plus a cold bath and sauna.

The inn had a quiet, relaxing feel, with paintings, substantial Japanese furniture and Hina dolls in the lobby and hallways. They burned incense in the morning, too. With only a few rooms, meals were served in private rooms rather than buffet style, so I could take my time and enjoy the food. Coffee was always available in the lounge, and I appreciated being able to carry a cup back to my room. The hot spring water was excellent, the changing and washing areas were spacious, and I really enjoyed the open-air bath. I stayed in a Japanese-Western room. The beds were close together, and I had to move them before I could squeeze through. The shoji screen between the Japanese-style room and the rest of the space also got in the way, so I moved it aside. That left only a person-sized gap, and I think rearranging the beds would have worked better. Aside from that, I had no problems. The hot springs and food were both satisfying, and I hadn't enjoyed a stay this much in a while. I hoped to come back soon. Updated March 8, 2026: I liked it so much that I booked another stay, but at check-in I was told the boiler had broken that morning. The hot spring water and showers were out of service, so I couldn't wash and could only soak. Since the hot springs were my favorite part, I had to cancel. I was very disappointed, especially during a busy holiday period, and wondered whether the equipment was being inspected properly. If they'd called me that morning, I wouldn't have traveled all the way there.

Good value for money for a hot spring inn, even by Togatta Onsen standards. The rooms and shared areas were clean and stylish. The water was deep green, smooth, and warming. The analysis sheet said every bath except the open-air one was circulated and filtered, while the website described all the baths as free-flowing. The mineral deposits seemed different between the open-air and indoor baths, though the indoor water felt strong too. There was also a small sauna and a cold bath. There were quite a few day visitors, and the baths got busy for a few hours after check-in, perhaps because day visits run until evening. The guests seemed mostly older, and I didn't see many inbound tourists. A group that seemed to be on a company trip was staying when I was there, and the common areas were lively. This place may not suit people who want quiet, don't smoke, or care a lot about details. The Western-style condominium building has a smoking room in the first-floor elevator hall. The hall and elevator car smelled of smoke as well. If that bothers you, I'd suggest a Japanese-style room or a lower floor reached by stairs.

The hot springs were refreshing, though I personally found the cold plunge the most relaxing. The men's and women's baths switch places overnight. In the changing area there are 100-yen lockers that you get the money back from, plus small lockers for guests' valuables. I found the room spacious and comfortable, more like a studio apartment, and was glad it had a microwave. I booked through a hotel booking site at the last minute and got a very reasonable price. Breakfast was served in a private room. Along with Japanese dishes, there was Bolognese bread and soft-boiled eggs to help yourself to. The staff were polite and friendly, and there seemed to be more men on staff than is usual at a hot spring inn.