Gaga Onsen

This pleasant, family-run place sits among the woods. It’s known for generations for treating gastrointestinal problems, and some English is spoken thanks to the family having spent time overseas.

Such an amazing onsen resort. It’s the best one I’ve ever visited.

I had a solo stay and found it relaxing, with nature all around and a clean room. The meals seemed healthy, though the portions felt a little small. Maybe that’s just how they’re meant to be. Wi-Fi only works in the lounge. I ended up enjoying the digital break, relaxing with a book.

The homemade-style food was carefully prepared with local ingredients, and the portions and flavors suited us as middle-aged diners. The Sasanishiki rice was especially delicious. I hadn’t eaten it in ages, and it brought back childhood memories of liking it more than Koshihikari. I even bought some on the way home. The owner and his wife looked after us impeccably, and the children quietly playing in the lobby were a delight. We splurged for our wedding anniversary on a room with its own bath, called Komakusa. One night wasn’t enough to enjoy it properly, and we’d have stayed two if we could. The room had a loft and a hidden room, dim lighting, and lamps that reminded me of Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin and other works. I was surprised to find a Henningsen pH bath. The bath was small but still let me stretch my legs. I had no complaints about it. The inn’s lobby, rooms, and furnishings showed the owner’s Scandinavian and minimalist taste. We visited just before the autumn leaves started changing, and it was still a lovely time to soak. The spring water was nearly colorless with a slight sulfur smell. It didn’t feel slimy or squeaky, and was comfortable for a long soak. Drinking it, I noticed the sulfur smell and a slight metallic taste, but it wasn’t unpleasant. Stink bugs are common in the mountains, so they didn’t bother me. Some parts of the place were a little rough around the edges, perhaps because the owners do the work themselves, but that didn’t take away from a wonderful five-star stay. I’d like to come back during the early summer flowers and unwind after hiking in Minami Zao.