Panorama Mekong Hostel

We only stopped for a $0.75 beer on our last night in the city, so I can't say anything about the food. The view over the mighty Mekong River is great, though. Monday night didn't seem like the best time to find much of a vibe. The lower floors looked busy, but the top floor was empty, and service was just okay. It's hard for the staff when it's so quiet. There's no elevator, so expect to climb a few stairs.

After nearly a week away from Ho Chi Minh City, traveling hundreds of miles along the murky Mekong and its colorful markets, we crossed into Cambodia. Phnom Penh felt restless, and the Panorama sat in the worn heart of its streets. I'd spent a week drifting on the river, with the sun marking my skin and its sounds in my ears. I wanted something cold and bitter, something with a bit of life to it. The place was full of locals and travelers. Khmer and broken English mixed together, with laughter coming and going like the tide. The bartender moved as if the night belonged to him, sure-handed but tired-eyed. In a corner, a girl sang quietly to no one in particular. Her voice had a haunting sound, like wind through riverside trees. I ordered my whiskey neat. Its amber color caught the light like the river at dusk. The first sip burned on the way down and brought relief, washing away the taste of fish, sweat, and silence. Then I had another, and another, until the bottle seemed like an old, steady friend.

We had a great time. It seemed to be mostly Khmer guests, and the Khmer music was wonderful. The pizza and morning glory fries were both good. We'll be back.

A relaxed spot by the riverside, with fresh air and a nice upper-floor balcony for having a drink. It's five floors, and dorm beds go for $4 a night.