La Vie en Rose

The place is beautiful, with lovely horses, and we warmed to it after seeing the foals graze by the pool. The gardens and pool are lovely, and the wine was pretty good at 150 MAD a bottle. Still, we felt out of place, as if we’d wandered into a horsey expat club. After ten days of Berber hospitality, this felt like an outpost of French colonialism, which was a bit troubling. The food was good, but twice what we’d paid elsewhere, and nobody told us the prices. A taxi to Marrakech cost 150 MAD, though after a long road trip we weren’t planning to go out much. Service was an issue too. We booked for five but had only four beds, and the owner didn’t seem especially concerned. The overworked staff were left to deal with it when we found out at bedtime. English wasn’t really spoken, unlike at the Berber hotels, so we had to use our school French, which wasn’t always easy. Everyone was nice overall, but the stay was a bit of a culture shock.

A great little gem about 30 minutes from Marrakech, with transport partners who can pick you up or drop you in town if you don’t have a car. It’s an easy day trip when you want a bit of time outside the city before heading back to the Medina and museums. La Vie en Rose is a lovely small resort: there’s a little hotel, a pool and garden, horse stables, and a dog pension. Day passes let you enjoy a fixed-menu lunch outside by the pool, with things like delicious salads, grilled meats, and strawberries fresh from the field. Then you can relax on the loungers, get a massage, or book a hammam session in advance. The ponies roam around happily and gallop across the lawn, but kept away from guests, so it felt safe. The staff, including Coco and team, were meticulous and attentive. The hotel interior is gorgeous too, though we spent more time outdoors.

The rooms were nice and the pool was great, but there was no reception, so we had to search for someone to check us in. Nobody spoke English, and dogs and cats wandered around. It seemed the owners’ friends took over the music and occupied the hotel. Things were disorganized, and checkout took an hour because they couldn’t find our bill. Our taxi was waiting and we were late for our next appointment. The Wi-Fi was unreliable, and the food was okay but nothing special. I wouldn’t stay again. It wasn’t worth the price.

There are only two staff members. They’re both very young and trying their best to please guests, but it isn’t enough. The place looks run down, with cobwebs and bugs everywhere. Watch out for bed bugs too, as I got bites. The food was very basic, and the required lodge dinner during the COVID lockdown was far too expensive for what it was. The place has potential and looks nice, but without real investment and a makeover, the quality is going downhill fast. I can’t justify paying this much when there are other lodges in the same area that offer a clean place and much better service.