Kumbali Country Lodge

We were in room 6, which had lovely high ceilings, exposed beams, a thatched roof, plenty of fans, and a private veranda looking onto grass and trees. It was beautifully designed and comfortable, and the little touches like flowers, chocolate on the pillows, and complimentary mossie cream were great. There was no AC, but we didn't need it. Wi-Fi worked well around the resort, and the backup generator kept the power on the whole time. The shower was cold and weak on the first day. They fixed it after we reported it, so it was better the next day, although the pressure was still low. The grounds are huge and beautifully kept. We saw zebras, wildebeest, and ostriches, and you can book a private game drive through the grounds for $25 per person. The safari jeep looked fun. We felt very safe, with two guarded vehicle gates, a room safe, and an emergency button. The veranda doors didn't seem very secure, though, and I reckon one hard pull from outside could open them. The monkeys can also be pests or threatening. Everyone was friendly and smiley, and Richard (the boss) was especially attentive. The rest of the staff seemed to follow his lead. But attention often fell short: we spent three hours by the pool without anyone asking if we wanted drinks or lunch, and at night we sat on the veranda with empty glasses for about an hour. That's poor service and lost business. There was a good-sized menu and a well-stocked bar. They say food takes 30+ minutes, so it makes sense to order and do something else while you wait. Still, our bruschetta and fries took over an hour despite how quiet it was. We ordered dinner at 1630 for 1830, arrived at the table at 1830, and the three steaks came at 1925. The steak wasn't great, though the best steak in Malawi is at Makuzi Beach Lodge. The burgers and noodles were fantastic. Breakfast was included, with a limited and slightly disappointing continental buffet, but the a la carte dishes were very good, especially the shakshuka and stuffed omlettes. The pool was the biggest letdown. It needs emptying, a new lining, and a proper clean. A pipe was left hanging in the water all day for no reason. There were only four hard, uncomfortable loungers, with no covers or cushions. After we sat there uncomfortably for three hours and several staff had seen us, I mentioned at the bar that cushions would help. She said they had some and usually put them out, which was annoying and disappointing. Google lists it as a 3* hotel, but at $260 a night I expected better, especially attentive service and a pool that wasn't so grim. Waiting more than an hour for fries and bread also seems unreasonable. Despite those failings, I do think this is the best hotel in Lilongwe. If they sorted out the slow or absent service and took better care of the pool, it would be even better. I can't give it less than 5*, though, because of the wonderful architecture, friendly staff, endless grounds and wildlife, and the comfort, design, and detail in the rooms. It's impressive to achieve all that in a challenging environment.