&Beyond Benguerra Island

A good place to slow down: I could read on the beach just a few steps from the room, by the pool, or on the swinging bed. The meals were high quality, and our butler and the rest of the staff made us feel at home and well looked after. Among the included outings, I’d especially recommend the castaway picnic, sunset dhow cruise, and snorkeling at the spectacular 2-mile reef. The helicopter transfer is scenic, swimming with horses is fun, and the village tour offers a better sense of how local villagers live. At night, the water can glow with bioluminescence. We stayed for the last leg of our honeymoon after Cape Town and Kruger, and it was a lovely way to unwind. We went in late February / early March because it fit our schedule, though the days were muggy; July / August might be a better, less muggy time. One thing to be aware of: the rooms aren’t fully sealed off from outside, so bugs or even geckos may get in.

The nightly walk to dinner was another source of unease. The footpath was poorly lit, and the few lanterns gave so little light that we had to use our phone flashlights. More substantial lighting or fairy lights along the path would help. I also have a gecko phobia. Having grown up in Thailand, I can handle them when they stay outside, but there were large ones, some nearly 30cm long, around the property and inside our room. At resorts such as Soneva and Six Senses in Thailand, staff have removed them when asked. Here, when we raised the issue, staff shrugged and said the geckos helped with mosquitoes. That response made things worse. I was anxious for much of the trip, and at times we missed meals because I felt safest under the mosquito net around our bed, away from geckos in the bedroom, bathroom, and even the lobby where meals were served. We’d chosen &Beyond Benguerra Island as a different kind of honeymoon after visiting the Maldives several times, but in the end we wished we’d gone back there. The island is undeniably beautiful and the staff tried their best, yet the stay didn’t meet our expectations or feel worth the price. As keen scuba divers who’ve been on liveaboards in Thailand, the Maldives, and Egypt, we’d hoped to dive often. Instead, the nearest reef was in open ocean, a 40-minute zodiac ride away. High winds and large waves made trips impossible on some days, and the boats didn’t seem adequate for those conditions. We managed just one dive in five days, though we’d hoped for about eight. A larger boat that could handle rougher seas might help. Had we known dive access would be so limited and unreliable, we’d have picked another destination. We were also disappointed to learn that dugong sightings, promoted as one of the resort’s attractions, are incredibly rare. High winds and the boat limitations also meant we missed whale watching. The horseback rides, including a sea ride and a beach island ride, were pleasant, but weren’t enough to justify the cost. For what we paid, we expected an exceptional honeymoon. This destination fell short.

The food was world class, especially the seafood from local fishermen. Given how remote the lodge is, it was impressive that the kitchen made just about all its ingredients in house. We spent five magical days in a beautiful corner of southeastern Africa, unwinding after an action packed safari. Mozambique is a wonderful country, and its people are generous and kind. The white powder sand, warm, clear Indian Ocean, and steady cool breezes are enviable. What made the small property special was how the &Beyond team paired that setting with professionalism and genuine hospitality. Getting to know our butler Paulo was a highlight. His Portuguese lessons, attention to detail, and infectious smile made a real impression. Isac, Josefa, Renoir, and the rest of the team also helped make the stay exceptional. Our cabana roof wasn’t fully sealed, so squirrels came in at night. It wasn’t a big deal to us, but I’d suggest &Beyond seal the cabanas and casinhas more completely, perhaps with thatching or discreet wiring, to keep larger critters out.

The community projects and the hotel’s relationship with local villagers really impressed us. We had an amazing stay: the rooms were beautiful, the food was delicious, and the attention to detail was spot on. We loved our butler Bento and all the guides, too. Snorkeling was so good we went twice. A big shout out to Zané and Renoir, who made sure we were having a fabulous time and arranged plenty of activities, so you won’t be bored here. The whole team was amazing. It really felt like paradise and barefoot luxury. Don’t hesitate to book!