Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

The flight in is part of the adventure: it’s about an hour by charter plane from the main Namibian airport, and our pilot was really friendly. Once there, the guides shared plenty of knowledge about the area and were eager to make the most of our time. We came for the desert and the experience more than the rooms. We slid down huge dunes, headed out to the coast, and saw lions, giraffes, elephants and other animals from just a few feet away. It made for a very up-close wildlife experience. The staff and chef were outstanding. The rooms are well furnished, with a lovely desert feel and incredible views. Just remember it’s a camp, not a hotel: there’s no AC or heating, though we didn’t need them much. Nights were cool and days warm, and they put a hot water bottle in the bed at night, a thoughtful touch. If you want something beyond a standard safari, Namibia is worth a chance. Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp made it a remarkable trip.

The downsides were the heat in the rooms, with no AC and daytime temperatures around 35°, and the pool area, which felt too small for eight rooms. We tried to swim, but there wasn’t enough space. Still, this lodge in the middle of nowhere was amazing. The common areas were clean and tastefully furnished with chairs and couches, and the staff were friendly and ready to help. The pool was a lifesaver in the afternoons, even though it was winter while we were there. Seeing the desert lion and elephants was a real highlight, along with giraffes, snakes, birds and buck, especially Springbok. We also watched a lion try to take down a baby giraffe, but the giraffe escaped. It was nature at its rawest. The lodge’s dedicated hyena research section was very interesting too.

The day out to the Skeleton Coast was a highlight, as were the hikes near camp with Charles, Thereza and Brighton. We also enjoyed the brown hyena talk from the on-site biologist. It was fascinating, so don’t miss it. And our pilot Andre made the flight smooth and comfortable. He was such a charming guy. We’d wanted to see this extreme landscape for a decade, and Hoanib finally made it happen. The camp was comfortable and beautifully done, with decor that blended into the surroundings. We loved that it runs on solar power. The food was delicious and portions were generous. The staff were spectacular. Charles was an excellent driver, easygoing, and seemed to know everything about everything. I spent a lot of time chatting with Thereza over gin and tonics, and felt we could be friends if we lived in the same city. We had a wonderful time and would strongly recommend Hoanib to anyone looking for something beyond the traditional safari.

We returned two years later with another well-travelled couple, and nearly everything was even better. The exception was the drive to Skeleton Coast, where the road had become deeply rutted since our previous visit. Sunsets from the hills above the desert were moving. Looking out at the geological wonders, we felt alone on the planet. The accommodations were spectacular, the food and South African wines delicious, and the guides and rest of the staff were first rate. The flights in and out were safe and comfortable. Our first trip had already impressed us: expert guides, fascinating desert-adapted wildlife, a starkly beautiful setting, excellent facilities, cuisine and staff. It’s all part of a world-class operation by Wilderness Safaris. A great first visit, and we’re coming back for more.