Hotel Graaf Bernstorff

The hotel runs its own free bus to the ferry, leaving 30 minutes before departure. We stayed three nights between Christmas and New Year in a suite in an annex, about 100 metres from the main hotel and beside the tourist information centre. It was clean, apart from a few cobwebs, and felt more like a well-equipped apartment, with a full kitchen for a longer stay. The beds and shower were excellent, though it was missing a shoehorn. Breakfast was basic at best, and the welcome felt emotionless. The exception was the kind waiter from Tenerife who served us dinner when we arrived on the island.

The location is spectacular, probably the best in town, and the restaurant food is delicious without being outrageously expensive. The owner was attentive, and although the rooms aren’t luxurious, they’re perfectly comfortable. We’d definitely come back.

The food was very mediocre. I only ate a little of the chicken satay because it was raw, and it made me sick. The Colombian staff member was the only one who really seemed to know hospitality: smart, friendly and organised. The Dutch waiters could wash their hair and wear smarter shirts, and the rest, including the guys from Canarias, should take a lesson from him. They could smarten up and smile.

The two-bedroom apartment was clean and spacious enough, and the city-centre location is perfect. The hotel isn’t especially modern, but it’s adequately equipped and perfectly fine.