Casas Mare

A very nice place for a family, with nice walks near the house.

What stayed with me most was the view from the living room and terrace. From sunrise, the waves and cliffs just beyond the rocks were beautiful, and I never got tired of looking at them. It was one of the loveliest views I've seen in all my travels, and the place felt like great value. Apartment 19 was at the end of the driveway, and I found it the most private. The inside matched the listing on Booking and Airbnb, with a sea view from the double bed. The host was very friendly and quick to respond when needed. The apartment has a washing machine but no dishwasher. The drive up from the road is steep, though manageable once you're used to it, even in a small manual car. Being so close to the ocean means humidity and a stronger smell than you'd get in a sterile hotel in Funchal. There were some mosquitoes, which we managed with plug-ins and repellent, along with harmless little centipedes, ants and lizards inside. We were fine with that, and there were none in the beds. If you want modern accommodation, this probably isn't the place for you. For us, it was magical.

Even in winter the units are warm, and waking up to that ocean view was lovely. Four people can stay comfortably. The kitchen has all the basics and more, including a toaster, coffee maker, microwave and washing machine, and they even leave firewood for the fireplace. We spent the evenings by the fire listening to the ocean. There’s also a small barbecue and chairs on the terrace, plus beach mattresses in the closet. There’s parking by the house and outside. Getting there does take an experienced driver. We hoped to book other dates, but the place was full for the rest of the year, which we can understand. We’d really like to come back.

The island feels like a heavenly place, and I already want to return. The house makes it easy to explore the north; getting to the south takes longer, but with a car it’s no problem. The roads are beautiful, with forests, cliffs and winding bends. We only had a short walk around the nearby town once. Its residents must have huge hearts to handle those steep climbs so easily. I’m weak :) There’s a lovely ocean-water pool near the house. I only went once because we left early and got back late, but I recommend it. I fell for the house as soon as I saw a photo of the view from the window, before I even had a trip planned. There weren’t many dates available, so I built my vacation around the ones I could get. It has two floors and sleeps four, though there were only two of us. There’s a fridge, a great stove and oven, and all the appliances, dishes and pots we needed. Supplies were sparse: liquid soap in the toilets, dish soap in the kitchen, and some coarse salt. I would have liked a little sugar and a few tea bags for the first day, then I could buy the rest. We left some tea for the next guests to pass along. It’s a wonderful place, and the hosts were very welcoming.