Casa do Comendador

I really loved my stay at Casa do Comendador. It’s a classic boutique hotel set on a hill near San Roque, with breathtaking views over Sao Jorge island. The host family were so hospitable, breakfast was hearty, and Rodrigo gave us great travel tips and communicated efficiently.

The location is nice, but breakfast is very basic and there’s hardly any service to speak of.

The setting is the real draw: step outside and there’s a cornfield or wild greenery nearby, with a spectacular view across to São Jorge. The owner is lively, there’s birdsong at night, lovely scents, and a ginger cat always around. Those things give the place a pleasant, rustic feel, despite how improvised much of it is. Just be clear about what you’re booking. It’s a casa rural, not a hotel: an old country house with rooms in an annex and a small breakfast. The listing photos can give the wrong impression, since they focus on newer furnishings and the living room where the owner watches TV. The actual accommodation didn’t meet my expectations, especially at such an exorbitant price. Breakfast was embarrassing, with four obviously packaged items set out on an old cupboard. The bread was good, as Portuguese bread usually is, but cleanliness around the rest of the spread was almost nonexistent. For a casual rural stay, it could be pleasant for a night or two. After that it feels cramped, and it’s not a good fit if you want privacy or more refined, modern rooms. Backpackers may be happier here. There are other rental houses and rooms on the island, and probably only two or three hotels on Pico that really deserve the name.

The sea view and the beauty of the place made a great impression on me. It’s a rural house, not a hotel, and breakfast is limited but adequate. The owner was kind and helpful. Our room in the upper part of the annex felt a little damp, though leaving the window open took care of it.