Ban Rai Jai Chaem Spa Cafe and Homestay

We were so sad to have only one night here. Matuk welcomed us right away and shared lots of useful tips for travelling nearby, including a sunset walk and a sunrise at the nearby mountain. The ‘sea of mist’ was amazing, one of the most incredible things we’ve ever seen, and there were hardly any people there. The rooms were lovely and immaculately clean, with a really comfortable bed. Matuk arranged massages at a day's notice in his gorgeous on-site spa, and they were the best of our lives. He also made an incredible dinner and breakfast, beautifully served with flowers picked from his garden. He makes a great cocktail too, and speaks great English.

The bamboo room gives the homestay a natural feel, and with only three rooms the place stays quiet and small-scale. The operator used to work in hotels, is friendly and knowledgeable, and can recommend good places to visit nearby. Be aware there are two flights of stairs to reach the room and two more to get to the bathroom, which may be difficult for anyone with mobility or walking issues. The exterior lights are all switched off at night, so it gets very dark around the property, and parking is limited. In late December it can get down to about 14°C, so bring enough warm clothes.

The owner suggested a walk around the area, and it turned out to be a lovely idea. We wandered through the rice fields, saw people working hard on the farms, and caught a very nice sunset. Dinner was cooked by the owner: fried chicken, mixed vegetables, and tom yum with prawns, plus a super cold chang beer and two cups of ginger honey tea. We were on a five-day drive up from chiang mai and stopped at Mae Cheam; our tour agency arranged this place. The room felt authentic and quite different from a normal hotel, with lovely flower decorations, especially orchids. It’s quiet and cozy, and I’d recommend staying here.

The bed was really comfortable, though if nature sounds tend to wake you, you may want ear plugs. We had a wonderful one-night stay and would happily come back. The amenities were great, and the spa was beautifully decorated. We booked the honeymoon package, with a massage, facial, body scrub, and bath. Breakfast was one of the best we’ve had in Thailand so far.