Chasa Rakthai Resort

Plan to stay more than two days if you can. It’s a safe, quiet countryside place surrounded by nature, with very good Thai-Chinese food. Getting there can be a bit difficult, but the trip is worthwhile. December and January are especially good, during the cool season. It’s popular with Thai travelers in winter, so booking at least four months ahead is strongly recommended. From Bangkok, you can fly to Mae Hong Son and then drive 20-30 minutes to the resort. If driving from Bangkok, I’d spend a night in Chiang Mai first. The road from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son takes at least 4-5 hours and is extremely winding and mountainous.

The views are the reason to come to Baan Rak Thai, and Chasa has them in spades. It sits in a prime spot on the water, with the village’s biggest waterfront property, and every lake view room looks out without obstruction. I still recommend it, though next time I’d personally camp at Pang Ung instead. The hotel has the makings of a top place, but it misses details. The room itself is fantastic, while the amenities feel cheap, with the same soap and shampoo you’d expect at a 500 bahts/night hotel. Breakfast is close to inedible by Bangkok standards, despite the hotel catering to upper middle class Thai guests. The WiFi password is on a breakfast coupon, and nobody answered the reception phone when I called three times, so I had to walk to the check-in counter. There’s also a distinct plumbing smell in the bathroom. These are minor issues, but they keep it from being one of Thailand’s best hotels.

The balcony looked out over a really nice lake view, and breakfast was very good, though I had to queue for a few minutes to be served. Getting to the breakfast area means climbing a long flight of steps. My room felt old and worn, and sound carried through the walls. The shower was okay and the bed comfortable, but I found the pillows very hard.

From the room balcony, the view is fantastic. It’s probably the biggest hotel in Ban Rak Thai, with simple rooms and basic facilities. The rooms are up in the hills, though, so there are lots of staircases to climb, which may be difficult for older guests.