Estancia Hosteria El Ceibo

The animals were a highlight for me. I loved the two cats and all the dogs, one cat even relaxed beside me in the hammock. I got to feed a very cute lamb, and we fed the wild horses before riding them. The food was good, though breakfast and merienda were basically the same each day. They did make sure my vegetarian friend had something to eat, which was thoughtful. We spent two nights here for my friend’s birthday. The regular staff and two older sibling guests were hospitable, but we didn’t feel as welcomed by the owners as the other guests seemed to be. Conversation with them felt a little cold. Maybe it was because we were young, or for some other reason. Some comments also made us uncomfortable, like someone saying it was odd for a male guest to wear nail polish. Uruguay may be liberal, but not everyone there necessarily is. If you don’t fit the profile, I’d consider a day visit or finding an estancia where everyone feels included.

The stillness, birdlife, walks by the river and lagoon, starry skies, and beautiful sunsets made this a wonderful stay. There are interesting books and artefacts around, an honesty bar, and comfortable rustic rooms in a mid-1800s estancia. Don’t come expecting a fast pace or a hotel-style experience, though. Joselo may fire up the wood stove to cook an asado, which was a real highlight. He also drove us around the estancia and explained the land, including places we’d already ridden with Mario. Carmen was happy to share her local knowledge and suggest things to see on our travels around Uruguay. We came to understand rural life and see the countryside, and it’s hard to imagine a better place for that. Carmen and Joselo were wonderful hosts, supported by an amazing team. Mario seemed to be everywhere, with his sheepdogs, looking after the horses, sheep, gardens, grounds, and us on rides. Lorene’s home cooking was irresistible, and our friendly housekeeper looked after the rooms. It was such an enjoyable experience, even if we probably ate too much!

A lovely way to see rural Uruguay. We had a wonderful family stay in a warm, friendly, rustic place, and the home-cooked meals were delicious. Highly recommend.

The food was fabulous, the rooms clean and comfortable, and the hosts really friendly.