V'Spirit Cruise

The caves were a fun excursion the next day, and we enjoyed the other activities too. The food was okay, with a good range at lunch and a nice set menu for dinner. Dessert was disappointing, just pudding in a plastic pot, and would have been nicer presented. We slept as well as you can on a boat, and the bed was okay. The kayaking trip was the main problem. The guide who came on the first boat gave us no directions about where to go. On the second boat, we didn’t know where to meet the group, and the staff at the kayaking area were rude, shouting, “get your tour guide, we don’t care,” and wouldn’t let us through. I know they weren’t cruise line staff, but it still dampened the experience. By the time we found our guide, there wasn’t much time left for the activity. Our stay in the president room was decent, and the activities were good otherwise. I do find it odd that they call it a two day cruise when you’re off the boat by 11am on day 2.

I definitely recommend staying 2 nights, because otherwise you get very little time in the bay. Lan Ha Bay was much nicer than Ha Long, with fewer boats. In hindsight, I wish we’d booked a boat that spent most of its time in Lan Ha Bay and let us stay on the big boat throughout. With this provider, both nights were on the same boat parked in one place among lots of other boats, so there wasn’t much privacy. On day 2, we spent until 14:30 on a smaller day cruise boat that took us deeper into the bay. Staying aboard a boat that moved around would have meant more scenery and views from the bedroom. We did 3D2N. There were lots of vegetarian choices, free water refills, and the food was okay overall. The first night’s dinner was amazing and much better than the fancier meal on the second night. Drinks cost a lot, so we didn’t have many. I also don’t understand why the prices are in USD when payment has to be in VND. On day 1, the cruise tour bus left Hanoi at 8:00 and reached Ha Long Bay at 11:30. We boarded at 12:00, then went to Hang Luon, where kayaking was amazing, and Tip Top Island. Day 2 was on the smaller boat, with visits to Trinh Nu Cave, Ao Ech lagoon, where you could swim to the beach but it was cold, and the Pearl Farm, which was so-so. We returned at 14:30 to exactly the same view as the day before. On day 3, we visited Sung Sot cave. We were back at the dock at 09:50, so there was no longer a view of the bay, and we got off the boat at 10:50. We had to wait until 12:00 for the bus, then only got to Hanoi at 16:00 because it detoured to pick up some people. That was very frustrating and a waste of time.

The cruise itself is beautiful, and the crew’s hospitality was at an international standard. The cruise manager, Harry, was the best manager I’ve had so far in Vietnam and really did his best for every guest. They contacted me earlier on WhatsApp, so it was easy to find the meeting point. After the stay, they also helped me find transport from Ha Long to Hanoi, which was very helpful. I highly recommend this cruise.

Sung Sot Cave was the highlight for me, truly spectacular and over 10,000sqm, with parts 30 meters high. It’s the best cave I’ve ever visited, even better than the Jenolan caves in New South Wales Australia, though Jenolan cathedral cave still has the best acoustics and reverb I’ve experienced. These caves had light reverb. I’m glad I managed it at 51, even though I’m very unfit. The first 100 steps got my heart racing, and there were hundreds of other people using the steps at 7am, like an ultimate step machine. It was worth it, but we felt rushed through the caves, with so many people on the route. It would’ve been nice to have some free time to sit and take in each section. Ti top island was packed with tourists. I was too unfit and tired to climb up to the lookout, and the crowds going up and down the steps made me think even if I could have done it, it wouldn’t have been relaxing. I think bush walks should be calmer, but all the boats follow the same schedule and activities. Fresh coconuts were priced at $80,000vnd, though I managed to get one for $60k. The program felt tight. I wish we’d had more time kayaking and on the boat ride. Boats were crashing into kayakers, which felt unsafe, and nobody had helmets. It was still fun seeing boats and kayaks nearly knock people’s heads off! Trying to please my wife and two teenagers isn’t easy, but the cruise seemed to hit the right notes. Some food was good and some was average, and it could’ve been better in places. Still, I was surprised by how good the buffet lunch and brunch were. There was plenty to eat and lots of variety. Harry, the tour manager, did a good job checking in on well over 45 guests.