Retreat Seaside

I had a spacious room looking out toward the water, and the pool was very clean. The food was good too. There was construction work going on, so I left early, but the owner was much more understanding than I expected, and I really appreciated that. I’m sure the rooms will be great after the renovation. It’s a lively place with lots of local visitors, and a nice spot to relax for a few nights in Port Vila.

A good choice if you’re not after a resort. My room was clean, the shared bathroom was well looked after, and all the staff were really friendly. The food wasn’t my favourite, but it was okay. The hotel itself is solid and the location fairly good.

The Retreat Seaside has a very calm feel, and I felt safe throughout my stay. There was a security guard at the entrance each evening. It’s within walking distance of Port Vila’s main drag, so you don’t need a taxi for every trip. The roads have deep potholes, and cars go cautiously, so walking on the roadside usually feels safe. The accommodation is well known, which makes it easy to arrange tour and activity pickups. When our tour forgot us, owner Dan let me use the phone to sort it out. Small kindnesses like that made things much smoother. The staff are lovely too, and the chef made delicious meals every time. I chose The Retreat Seaside Sports Bar to watch live sports. The Boxing Day test cricket match drew a good crowd, and after that there were international sports on the three huge TVs. The covered outdoor shared area is also where people smoke. I loved the music throughout the stay. The playlist had a great mix, and on Friday a local DJ played equally great songs in English, French and the local language. It’s very hot and humid in Vanuatu, so I was glad the guest water was filtered and chilled. I used tap water to brush my teeth, but filtered water is strongly recommended for drinking, and you need plenty of it. There was no door hanger to say whether I wanted the room cleaned or left alone. The cleaning happened sporadically. My room had no air conditioning, the floor wasn’t clean when I arrived, and the bed smelled strongly of cigarettes and was extremely soft. I’m sure staff would have cleaned and made up the room if I’d asked, but it was Christmas Eve in a Christian country, so we decided not to bother anyone. There was a desk and chair, bedside tables, a wall lamp, ceiling fan, hangers and shelving, but no safe for cash or passports. The curtains didn’t cover the window fully and looked worn. The essential mosquito net over the window did its job, but blurred the view a lot. Breakfast was four small boxed cereals with UHT milk in a tub in the room. There were also two bottles of water, Milo, tea and Nescafe sachets, and some peanuts. The bathroom assigned to us was shared by three rooms, about six people. The toilet and shower were together in one room, and there was also a bathroom at the bar. Downstairs, there’s a bookshelf where guests can borrow or exchange books. Service runs from 10am to 10pm, except Mondays and public holidays. Every morning, Common Myna birds squabbling above the awning woke us up, loudly, for about an hour. Kids and families staying there made lots of use of the trampoline, swimming pool, ping pong table and card and board games. Adults could pay extra to play darts and pool, a fun way to pass the time when the rain came. I booked well ahead, which I recommend because hotels fill quickly in peak holiday seasons. Before we arrived, I emailed the business several times with questions and asked for advice as a first-time visitor to Vanuatu. The replies were sporadic and vague. It’s more an observation than a criticism. When I spoke with external tour and activity organisers during my nine-day visit, their verbal communication was also ambiguous. I assume that may be part of the local culture.

We came across this spot on Google Maps while looking for somewhere to watch sports. The lagoon views are quiet, and there’s a great breeze. Beers are a little pricey, but the grilled chicken wrap made the cost easier to swallow. The food was excellent. It’s a hidden gem.