Hacienda Barrigona

We stayed five nights at Hacienda Barrigona in mid-January. The staff were exceptionally kind, humble and well trained, and did their best to accommodate requests. The restaurant, roughly in the middle of the property, is beautifully designed in wood and has breathtaking views from upstairs. They make local homemade food from a menu or by request, are accommodating with preferences, offer a kids' menu, and have a bar. Our casita, Casa Guanacaste, sits deep in the jungle with a stunning ocean view about 500-1000 meters away. It's large, authentic and full of character, with heavy original wooden furniture and a beautifully aged feel. Cooking supplies, beach gear and a comfortable setup for a longer stay were all provided. The casitas are well separated from each other, so there's good privacy. The beach was the most beautiful we saw in Guanacaste: white sand, palms, calm water, and a private, untouched feel. It was safe for our six- and eight-year-old children, with minimal waves. The property is conveniently between Sámara and Nosara. We surfed in Nosara several times, about a 25-minute drive away. It has what you need, including an urgent care clinic, where a visit was about $100, which seemed very reasonable. On our first day at the casita we saw lots of coatis and heard very vocal howler monkeys. They're wild animals, so don't expect them to approach or eat from your hand. Getting there was already an adrenaline rush. From Liberia Airport, where we rented a car nearby, the drive was about 150 km and took roughly 2.5 hours. You enter a gated neighborhood, but there are no formal roads, only steep, rocky paths through very hilly terrain. The dry season in northern Costa Rica brings a lovely tropical climate, but it can go three or four weeks without rain. The dirt and rock roads get extremely dusty, with trees covered in dust. Driving with open windows or in open vehicles is nearly impossible without covering your face and mouth, or you'll breathe and eat dust. This isn't specific to Hacienda Barrigona, as most Costa Rican roads are like this, including some paved roads. They're narrow and hilly, and not very friendly for international drivers. This is real jungle living, so expect crawling and flying insects, including frogs, scorpions and many kinds of bugs. Scorpions can get into the house easily if doors are left open. We told management, and they promptly sent someone to inspect and do pest control, but the insects are still part of the setting. The roads inside the property are steep, uneven and scary, especially at night. There's no lighting, and some run beside cliffs. Walking to the restaurant at night is technically possible but feels unsafe, and we had to use a phone flashlight to avoid falling off the road. Our children were genuinely scared, so it wasn't kid-friendly at night. Driving out for dinner after dark felt like an adventure of its own. The grounds are large and poorly marked. We got lost twice just trying to find the exit.