La Clé des Champs

The hotel had been closed except for one day since 2011. On September 30, 2018, I visited for lunch after it reopened. I’ve softened my review because the chef is new, and I don’t want the hotel to close. It’s the only local hotel with rooms. Sadly, Sunday lunch was a real letdown for €16. The starter was quiche: the pastry was thin and cooked, but the filling was solid and unpleasant. I even wondered whether the pastry was homemade. The main was turkey curry, a small portion that reminded me of 1960s Vesta packets, with a handful of raisins and, oddly, heavy risotto. Dessert was chocolate moelleux, but it had been microwaved too long, leaving the sponge crisp and hard instead of moist. I want the restaurant to succeed, but the second-rate meal we had needs a lot of improvement in the chef skills department. Nothing tasted homemade. I can assemble a frozen meal at home and expect much more from a real chef. Maybe a lack of training is the issue. At €12.50 with wine for lunch, the same meal would be better value. I expect more from a hotel of this standing.

I’ve been living within walking distance for two years and had been waiting to visit, but it always seemed closed. Finally, someone outside said it would be open for food on Sunday. After an early morning working away, I set off on the long walk with €20 in my pocket, which is good money around here. Local bar owners will stay open all evening for one customer, so I gave it a try. The place was open, doors wide, but there wasn’t a soul there. No customers, cars, or staff. I waited in the front lounge, then walked around the buildings calling out, like in the movies. Nothing. Nada, zero, rien. The best ghost hotel in France, that’s the next internet campaign. What else?

They served me even though I arrived late, right at the end of service. The meal was simple and good value: starter, main, dessert, coffee, and beer for €19.20. Service was very quick. It’s a shame the daily specials weren’t posted. I’d recommend stopping in if you’re passing through.

The rooms are clean and quiet, and the bedding is excellent. Over the weekend, though, the room wasn’t cleaned and the towels weren’t changed, and there’s no power outlet in the bathroom. The reception feels more like a guesthouse than a hotel. The owners may be a little inexperienced in the industry, but they’re very friendly. The homemade cakes and jam at breakfast are very good. I’d prefer the bread and pastries to come from the bakery in the nearby village. With those few improvements, I’d recommend the hotel.