Castro

We really enjoyed staying here. The place is simple and clean, right in the middle of Chora, and the shared terrace has a spectacular view over Folegandros.

The cliff views are extraordinary, some of the most memorable I've seen in Greece or anywhere around the Mediterranean. Room choice depends a lot on the wind. In calm or light conditions, I'd go for one of the Double Rooms with Sea View, which have balconies. The Suite with Sea View doesn't have a balcony. For a last-minute booking, especially outside peak season, check the forecast. Strong northerly winds can make the balconies very exposed as the gusts rush up the cliff and swirl around them. The rooftop deck, open to all hotel guests, sits in a sheltered pocket and stays much calmer. It has the same amazing view, with chairs, tables and umbrellas, though it's less private and harder to reach. There's also a rooftop room listed as a Double Room with Panoramic View. Its private area is marked off from the shared deck by a low fence, so it may not feel very private if you're paying for the panoramic room. I recommend booking on the hotel's own website rather than through a third party. If plans change at the last minute, say because of a weather delay, the hotel may be able to help. Castro Hotel accommodated me when I added a night, while a third-party booking can leave you stuck with what you reserved.

We'd happily come back. Despo was a warm, lovely host, and the historic building has breathtaking views across the Aegean.

I was worried the room without AC might be hard to sleep in, but the ceiling fan kept cool air moving through the night. The bed and pillows were very comfortable, and the owner gave us such a lovely welcome. She kindly arranged our rides to and from the port. The location is one of a kind. Every time you wander through the Kastro lanes, it feels like another postcard view. I'd stay here again if I return to Folegandros.