i boschi del castagno

Such a quiet, peaceful spot, and the hosts were great.

We paid 220 euros for a two-night Smartbox stay that was supposed to include two dinners and two breakfasts. The owner said the modest price was 160 euros, and we were told the suite would cost 15 euros extra. We chose it, but at checkout they charged us 60 euros for it, 15 euros per night for two people. The total came to 230 euros. I've never had an experience like this, and I wouldn't stay somewhere like this again. The suite turned out to be a large studio with a bathroom, no bidet, and a window facing the woodshed. The kitchen had old pots and dishes, and no stove, just a hotplate. We left our bags and went out, then dinner was served at 7 in a simply set kitchen. The first course was linguine with pesto, green beans, and potatoes; honestly, plain pasta would have suited me better. Before that, the woman served three canapés and a jar of zucchini swimming in oil, then disappeared while her husband brought the pasta from another kitchen. Breakfast was left in the suite, as the owner had told us. It was sliced bread in a plastic lidded bowl, tea of an unknown kind, two jars of jam, butter, a few sugar packets, and coffee for the moka pot. We went on our tour, which meant a 30-minute drive down to the valley on narrow, winding roads, and decided to eat out that evening, skipping the second dinner included in the Smartbox. When we got back tired, the suite hadn't been touched. The bed wasn't made, and there were no fresh towels for the second day, so we had to dry ourselves with the same ones from the day before, still damp. On the final morning, they left exactly what remained from breakfast the day before, including three slices of bread and the same other items.

A lovely, rustic place with a bucolic feel. The owners are welcoming and clearly close to the land and wildlife, and the homemade food is good and wild. Best suited to people who love nature, and not really a place for high heels or dresses.

The Dolomites are spectacular, and there are lovely walks, good food, the forest sounds, and absolute quiet. It's a magical little corner that lets you properly unwind, body and mind, with a feeling I haven't found elsewhere.