Sukayu Onsen Ryokan

The bathing customs at Sukayu onsen feel like a step back in time, and a reminder of how things used to be done. It's been around for 300 years. For example, there's no soap or shampoo, and the only fresh water is cold. The areas separated by sex also show what modern times have brought to a culture locals are still trying to preserve. I'd visit in its current form when you can, since the bathing practices may change in this decade or the next.

We got to Sukayu onsen at 8:15 a.m. and managed to try both the famous mixed Sennin Buro, the 1,000-person bath, and Tamanoyu, the gender-separated bath. The women's-only time at Sennin Buro runs from 8 to 9 a.m. The water was milky white, slightly acidic, sulfurous, and wonderfully soothing for our fatigue. Visibility in the mixed bath was low. There were only about three or four others sharing it, and at 9:45 a.m. I had the gender-separated bath to myself. After bathing, there's fresh spring water flowing freely to drink. We drove from Aomori city on the morning of February 22, during heavy snow. The road was busy at first, then climbed into the mountains on winding slopes that challenged even an experienced driver like me. We were relieved to arrive safely. The traditional ryokan's interior was well furnished and didn't feel too dated. We left at 10:45 a.m., and the snow got worse on the drive back to Aomori city. We were fortunate to make it through safely. It was a memorable day, and I'd like to visit again sometime, though I may avoid driving there in winter. We were only day-trippers.

The thousand-person bath is a one-of-a-kind soak that every onsen fan should try at least once. Afterward, it's nice to unwind in the quiet room. The hotel is tucked deep in the mountains, and getting there in midwinter can be tough, though the JR bus drivers handled it well. Food choices are limited on days when the cafe is closed, but that's a small tradeoff for such a lovely onsen stay.

I spent one night here and had quite an experience. Breakfast and dinner were included with the room, and the famous mixed bath was memorable. People of both genders bathe literally naked, though women can rent a garment to wear. The sulfur makes it hard to see much inside.