Atami Kinomiyanoyu Shogetsu

It's a peaceful place, though a bit remote. This is a traditional Japanese hotel, with tatami rooms and a small spa section.

I was disappointed to find that the hot springs weren't available until 5pm, even though I was looking forward to using them after checking in. Another surprise was that the lights went out at 11pm while I was still bathing, with no warning. There's a switch by the entrance, so staff could tell whether anyone is bathing by checking for slippers. If the facility is going to close at a fixed time, a clock in the changing room or nearby would help guests keep track. I hope they make some improvements.

I had a precise view of Hatsushima from my room. The night before, I saw it from the third floor, then after checking out at 10am I headed there. Dinner isn't offered, only breakfast, so I ate before I arrived. Breakfast in the second-floor dining room was boiled eggs, toast, and fruit, with extra toast and drinks available. This is a traditional Japanese inn in a reinforced concrete building. There were sandals on the raised entrance floor, and the front desk sat between the first and second floors. The dining room and bath were on the second floor, my room was on the third, and there was no elevator. The hallway was cold. The nearest station is Kurinomiya, the next station rather than Atami. The inn is on a steep slope, making it hard to walk to. I drove, but there are only three parking spaces, so I had to reserve ahead. It was cold in my room, so I went to the bath while it warmed up. The bath fits three people, and you can adjust the temperature with the cold and hot spring faucets. The dressing room had an air conditioner, but it didn't work, so that area was cold too. When I got back, the room was still chilly, so I crawled into the futon I'd laid out just in case. I had to lay out and put away the futon myself. The TV only had terrestrial channels. I'd brought a CD radio cassette player, so I spent the evening reading and listening to my favorite jazz.

The inn is conveniently located near the station and a famous shrine, and the building looks beautiful from outside. Inside, though, it creaks a lot, and footsteps carry a long way, so there's no soundproofing. Check-in is at 3:00, but bathing doesn't start until 5:00. If you arrive early, you'll be sweaty with nowhere to wash off. The difference between the man at check-in and the guy in charge in the morning was striking.