Ryokan Hozanso

I used the private onsen for two people. It was in a separate building across from reception, and staff gave us a key to unlock it, which we had to return afterward. The room has a retro traditional feel, but there’s no changing room. You step straight into the bathing area, where a small wooden floor section and two baskets serve as the changing spot. They also provide a basket with a hair dryer to use later and a towel for the wooden foot box. There’s a shower head and stool beside the tub for washing, or you can use water directly from the onsen. Be careful not to splash the changing corner. The floor is large stone tiles and most of the walls are wood. The square wooden tub is small, with clear water that felt nice on my skin. I measured the incoming water at 90.2°C, but you can add cold water to cool the tub. The space is small, though a large window lets in plenty of natural light. Everything was clean and well maintained, with a nice retro feel. The private bath for two costs ¥1300 for one hour, while the public onsen entrance is ¥400. There are also other options, including an outdoor private onsen for 2-3 people and private bedrock bath, with different prices. Shampoo is provided, but bring your own towel. You can get a Beppu onsen stamp at reception. For non-guests, opening hours are 10:00-15:00. To use the hair dryer, plug it in at the shared area for the other onsen on your way back to reception. Don’t forget to lock the door again before returning the key. The reception staff were very friendly, and two cute cats were wandering around! Alkaline spring water, source temperature 97.9°C, pH 9, metasilicic acid 274mg, gensen kakenagashi.

The price was among the lower ones in town, though you’re quite far from the train station, so having a car would help. We were in the annex. The room was roomy, with just a toilet; for bathing, you use the communal baths or book one of the private onsen rooms.

A small, charming indoor local bath. Really hot, and just 100 yen.

The hot spring was good, and the Okami (Lady Owner) was kind. Definitely worth trying.