Matsuriya Yuzaemon

Dinner was a real experience: the food was delicious, plentiful, and varied, with dishes I didn’t find elsewhere on my trip. My favourites were the pickled eggplant and seafood custard. A staff member performed shamisen music, showed me a few notes, and took photos. I’m seriously thinking about learning more. Breakfast was worthwhile too, especially the miso soup and saba fish. I’d recommend trying both meals at the hotel. The staff were incredibly helpful around town, including finding me somewhere to have breakfast on my last day in Iizaka Onsen. They seem to know the local community well. On my first night, I was lost trying to get to the hotel and a local woman drove me there because she was friends with the owner. Everyone at the hotel and in town was kind to a confused foreigner like me. Their warmth made the stay one of the highlights of my Japan visit. I loved wandering around Iizaka Onsen in the light, short yukata from my room. I wish I’d checked out the hotel’s beautiful gift shop for one to take home. The hotel is near several notable spots, including Kyu Horikiri-tei, and a footpath up to the shrine at nearby Atagoyama Park. The room was lovely and spacious, the mountain view from my window was breathtaking, and the baths were tranquil at night. The outdoor baths stay open until midnight, so I could soak alone for a while before bed, then pick up a bottle of milk from a nearby vending machine on my way back upstairs. One small thing: more English instructions in the rooms about which amenities are included, where to find them, and how they work would help. I was confused the first night and didn’t notice the water pitcher and tea-maker until the next day. Apart from that, I heartily recommend Yuzaemon for a lovely onsen stay.

The building had a calm, relaxing feel and a distinctive festival-like atmosphere that suited its name. The sashimi was served so stylishly on a glass plate, something I’d never seen before, and it really impressed me. We went to a club at night, and the staff were friendly, which made it a fun memory.

Even though the inn was supposed to be almost fully booked, I could always find the baths free and enjoy a relaxing soak. There’s one indoor bath and three outdoor ones, so it never seemed crowded. Lately they’ve been offering lots of buffets, and the food was great. Since it was New Year’s Day, we got a variety of dishes similar to a New Year’s feast. This is somewhere I’d like to return to when I’m in Fukushima and want a more relaxed stay.

I woke early and walked to the river and bridge behind the hotel, where I got some great photos. The stay itself was incredibly comfortable, from the Japanese-style tatami beds and delicious vegetarian set meals to the two meals included and the president’s personal shamisen performance. The large bathhouse on B1 had a handy horse oil bath, shampoo, and face wash. Afterwards I had iced milk and a foot massage, which felt so refreshing.