Okuminoen

The meals were good for the price, and the simple room was clean enough for a place to sleep. The problem was the noise from small groups, whose parties could get pretty loud even though the lodging itself is small. Some middle-aged Japanese guests had poor manners, sometimes talking loudly with their room doors open. They seemed to be regulars. If that kind of thing bothers you, I'd avoid staying here.

For 6,600 yen a night including breakfast, this was amazing value. Breakfast was delicious, and we had dinner separately at the attached restaurant, which serves authentic Italian food. The whole place was very clean, the staff polite and helpful, and the shared toilets and baths caused us no trouble. The bath itself can fit around 7-8 people. It was a wonderful inn.

It's a handy base for ski and snowboard resorts in season, right along National Route 158 between Takasu and Shiratori. The tatami rooms have a guesthouse feel, and some look out over the Nagaragawa Railway. This is a rural lodging, and stink bugs are common in the area. They smell if you touch them, so duct tape is provided to catch them without crushing them. Baths are open until 11 PM and from 6 AM. Dinner finishes at 9 PM, so late arrivals miss the meal, though there's a restaurant next door for an extra charge. If you're still there after 9, you can refill your drinks at that restaurant. Meals, including rice, are self-serve with refills, and breakfast works the same way.

The inn's garden was especially lovely when I visited in autumn and winter, with beautiful fall leaves. It's a rural resort that feels at home in nature, with nostalgic, warm Japanese-style rooms that were genuinely relaxing. There are different plans, from room only to one night with two meals. I chose the two-meal plan, and liked that the dishes changed each day instead of being buffet style. The food was delicious, so I'd recommend it. Santaberu next door serves alcohol too, making this a nice option for couples or groups. I found it while heading toward Hirugano Plateau, on the route people use for skiing and snowboarding. Going north from Shiratori Interchange, you'll see the Nicoem Baumkuchen shop on the left, and the inn shares its grounds with the Santaberu restaurant. Hirugano Plateau is also worth visiting in spring, summer, or autumn, and apparently you can even ski there in summer. The place is also used for training camps and weddings.