Matsuzakaya Honten

My mother and sister were visiting Hakone for the first time, and none of us had been to Matsuzakaya Honten before. It was a memorable family trip, our first together in a long time. After check-in, while staff were walking us to our rooms, I mentioned that my birthday had been the week before. That evening at kaiseki dinner, they brought out a dessert marked “Happy Birthday.” That small surprise reflected how attentive and lovely everyone was. At each meal, staff were friendly and knew a lot about the dishes and sake selection. The ryokan is a little farther from the city center, but we came to relax, and that’s exactly what we did: ate, napped, and enjoyed both the onsen and the private one in our room. It was a perfect, restful vacation, and we’ll remember it for years.

I’m sharing my client’s experience for travelers with food allergies or medical dietary restrictions. I had booked one night at this ryokan for about $1,300, including dinner and breakfast. Before the stay, I explained that my client needs a strict gluten-free diet for medical reasons. I made clear they didn’t need a special meal. Plain rice, grilled fish, or vegetables cooked only with salt would have been enough. The ryokan said it couldn’t prepare gluten-free meals because the kitchen uses soy sauce and miso regularly and couldn’t guarantee no gluten cross-contact. Kitchen limitations are understandable, but they suggested the client bring their own food. That struck me as absurd and embarrassing. More concerning, they said there would be no partial refund for the included dinner and breakfast if my client couldn’t eat them. Why pay for meals they couldn’t use? For a ryokan at this price, the response was disappointing. Gluten-free dining isn’t unusual today, and wheat is already included among Japan’s major allergens for labeling. I wasn’t asking for a modified kaiseki meal, just a very basic one without wheat products. In my experience, most ryokan can provide simple things like rice, fish, tofu, and vegetables. I cancelled and booked another ryokan that accommodated the restriction without difficulty. The inflexibility was uncanny and very disappointing, so I can’t recommend this place. Travelers with celiac disease, gluten intolerance, or other food allergies may want to carefully confirm meal arrangements before booking.

The setting stayed beautiful and peaceful even in the rain. We enjoyed both the private and open-air onsens, and the game room and cozy lounge were nice touches. Buses came often, and it took maybe 8 minutes to reach Lake Ashinoko. From there, you can take the boat across and get to the cablecars. Depending on where you want to go on the Hakone loop, some places may be a little far, but the scenery is so lovely that the ride is worthwhile. I thought the location was pretty good, though maybe the time of year mattered. From the welcome tea and mochi dessert at the entrance to the friendly service throughout, the hospitality was truly 1000/10. Staff went out of their way to keep us comfortable, and the delicious food and exploring the traditional ryokan in yukatas made the stay feel special. The whole visit was peaceful and relaxing. I genuinely love this ryokan and will definitely come back for longer next time.

The private onsen in our two floor maisonette was fantastic and peaceful, and the room was huge for two people. The public onsen was clean, spacious, and amazing. I don’t know what the women’s side looks like, but I expect it’s just as nice. The water comes from natural sources and isn’t filtered, so there’s a slight sulfur smell. That’s part of it, but if you can’t handle the scent, this place may not suit you. The meals were fresh and tasty, especially breakfast. Don’t expect big city, Tokyo Michelin level kaiseki, or you’ll set yourself up for disappointment. Still, the food was excellent overall. Services and facilities were excellent too. Getting there may not work for everyone. We reached Hakone Yumoto station around 4 and arrived at the ryokan at about 4:40 by local bus. Traffic was fairly light, though it could be worse in high season. We liked the secluded location compared with staying in town or by the lake. There are quite a few stairs, mostly short runs, but they could be inconvenient if you or someone in your party has limited mobility. If you’re uneasy about public onsens, try going early. They open at 5am. I went once early and had the place to myself for 30 minutes, then again in late afternoon when two others were there. Everyone’s nude, but you get used to it quickly. Use the small towel to cover up if you need to.