Powder Temple

I stopped in for one drink and ended up staying longer than planned, and I'm glad I did. The place has a relaxed, welcoming feel, helped along by two fantastic Swedish bartenders who were friendly and easy to chat with. The beer was properly cold, which is rarer than it should be, and the White Russian was excellent, smooth and balanced, maybe a little too easy to drink. They clearly know their way around the bar. Highly recommend.

EDIT: I did enjoy my stay, and the place has a lot of potential. I can see they're working on it. The earlier issues with leaks, water, and heat weren't a problem for me, but I wanted future travelers to know about the issues I did run into. I might have returned in a few years once construction was done, but the owner's mean spirited comments have made me hesitate. I budget backpack around the world and know what I'm signing up for. I just wanted others to be prepared. The staff were very nice, though there weren't many of them. It's an active construction site and unsafe for people with limited mobility because there are no outside stair rails. The facilities were old and makeshift, though the important areas were clean. The sheets were worn but clean; the comforter had what looked like a puke stain, and staff changed it when we asked. We had plenty of heat and hot water. The walls are thin, so bring ear plugs. Breakfast was basic but good. We didn't eat dinner there because there was no vegetarian option, though it smelled good. It's a ways from both main areas, and getting around is tough when it's unbearably cold and walking sucks. Echoland is a pleasant 15 minute walk, but you'll need an Uber or car for Happo. My three main gripes: our basement bedroom smelled so strongly of mold that it got into all our stuff and left our clothes disgusting; they offered to drive us to Yamato for shipping without mentioning a fee, then later came to find me and say it cost 1000 yen, which I gladly paid but felt was shifty; and the no outside food rule made us feel trapped. Nearby, there's only 7/11, and when it hit -10C we would have loved pizza and their beer on site. The lodge has a snack menu, but staff were never around to get anything and I never saw anyone order food. Don't get caught throwing out a drink you'd brought earlier. It's a work in progress that we're paying for while it happens.

The rooms are simple, warm, and comfortable, and just right for the price. After a day of snowboarding, when I was hurtling down the mountain like a fridge pushed off a cliff, it was a lovely place to limp back to for a bevvy or 8, a laugh with old and new friends, and a home cooked meal. My son broke his arm on the first day and spent the whole trip at the lodge. Having free wifi and the run of his dad's place while we were out wasn't a hardship for him. That's how cozy it is. The staff, especially Hannah, Jack, and Freya, were friendly. The vibe was relaxed, and everything ran so smoothly I wondered if Jake had sold his soul. If he did, it was worth it. For context, I helped buy Powder Temple in 2014 with my then-husband Jake. He's since renovated it beautifully with his new wife Renee, who is annoyingly lovely and hard to resent properly. The whole thing is very rude of them. Walking in now felt like seeing the life I might have had if I'd been any good at DIY or able to tolerate Jake, and him me. He turned our “quirky fixer-upper with character,” meaning structurally questionable, into a lovely, modern, cozy retreat. I kept looking for a hole in a wall or floor to blame on him, but he's apparently discovered competence. Powder Temple isn't a five star luxury resort, with velvet robes, gold plated taps, rose petals on the pillow, or room service. It's the cheapest accommodation in Hakuba and top tier value for money. You arrive expecting a budget ski lodge because that's what you paid for, and get, well, a budget ski lodge. Jake and his lovely new wife did an incredible job. I'm proud and mildly offended, and I'll absolutely be back, apparently for more emotional complexity with my snowboarding holidays and friendship with my ex and his wife. Highly recommend, even if your ex owns it ;)

Best hostel in Hakuba! The staff were kind and patient with all our questions, and the private room was comfortable and warm. The location works well, with Echoland and 7/11 within walking distance. Same place next year!