Okumusashi Ryokan

It was clean enough, and the 600¥ bath did what I needed. The place feels pretty old, though, and gives you an idea of what Japan's service industry might look like in less than 10 years. It seems there isn't anyone in the family lined up to take over the business.

The ¥600 day-use bath is handy if you're traveling from Chichibu to Tove Jansson Akebono Children's Forest Park, or need to warm up after the Chichibu Night Festival. It opens at 7:00 AM, is about a 7-8 minute walk from Hanno Station, and provides towels, so you can arrive empty-handed. There are free lockers, hair dryers and amenities, plus coin laundry and parking for about a dozen cars. The bath itself is rectangular, roughly six tatami mats in size, with six mixer taps and showers. My ratings: water 2/5, price 3/5, service 4/5, facilities 4/5. The laundry could be useful for car camping, too. My main gripe is the chlorine smell. As soon as I open the door after using the heated water, I notice it, and it seems to cling to me when I leave. That's why I took off a star for water quality. Maybe the public health center requires it, but the bath seems well cleaned, so I'd like them to use as little disinfectant as possible. Regular thorough cleaning is a given, of course, and there are places around the country that handle this really well. As a public bath fan, I hope bathers will wash their whole bodies with shampoo or something before getting in, and be mindful of how dirty their crotch is. That would help keep the water cleaner. I don't see people putting towels in the bath these days, at least.

This place has a nostalgic feel, like visiting the home of a grandpa who runs an inn back in his hometown. I find the old, pleasant smell as you enter really relaxing. The large communal bath has an old-fashioned charm, so it's especially suited to people who love public baths or see a bath as an essential part of traveling. The attached izakaya serves delicious seasonal dishes, and the front desk staff are all friendly when you speak with them. There's Wi-Fi and a Coke-on vending machine for anyone who'd rather not use cash. The inn stayed clean and free of insects even in summer. For me, it's the best place to stay in Hanno.

After climbing, the bath was just the right temperature and eased my tired body. The jacuzzi felt great too, and I could feel my circulation improve straight away. They provide towels for free, and 600 yen is great value. Just what I needed to freshen up after a climb.