Hotel Kikori

We were nearly on our own at the beginning of September, with only a couple of other rooms occupied, so it was very peaceful. We chose the lowest meal category, and the food was still fantastic. The menu is set, but we’re happy to try new Japanese dishes, and we enjoyed it. We booked through the hotel website, where there was a discount. You choose the meal category when making the reservation. This was the perfect spot for our first Ryokan stay during a couple of weeks of travel in Japan. Just be aware it’s on the outskirts of town. A taxi cost us around 3800 yen each way, or you can take the 200 yen bus from Hida-Furukawa station to Nukumori no Yu Spaful, a minute from the hotel. There aren’t many buses if you want to head out for the day, so ask reception for the timetable. They can call a taxi for you too.

We left early in the morning after deciding not to stay the second night, but the hotel didn’t refund that night’s charge. Breakfast service ends at 8am, so you have to get up at 7 to eat. There’s little to do at the hotel or nearby, and I couldn’t see the point of such an early start. It felt like the schedule suited the hotel, with no concern for whether guests liked it. The service was disgusting. I wouldn’t return even if I were paid, and I absolutely don’t recommend it. The hotel is far away and absolutely not worth the price. The food wasn’t tasty, and a European wouldn’t find the breakfast filling. There’s nowhere else to get breakfast or buy groceries. We tried breakfast once and immediately asked to cancel the one we’d ordered for the following day. Food has to be ordered before check-in, and the receptionist said we’d still be charged whether we ate it or not. I had to insist repeatedly to avoid paying for food we didn’t want. The building is old, and the onsen had rotten boards on the walls and no sense of cleanliness. Our room had lots of stink bugs buzzing around noisily at night. We killed a few, but found three more on the walls in the morning, even though the window stayed closed the whole time. The receptionist said there are many at this time of year and they keep appearing no matter how many you kill, and that the hotel has no solution.

The outdoor onsen was perfect for the time of year, with cool air around the hot spring, and the indoor bath was good too. Once the thick morning fog cleared, we could see the mountains. Dinner and breakfast were Japanese style, kaiseki, and delicious. I’m a coffee drinker, so I especially appreciated the strong coffee in the morning. There were also lots of teas for anyone who prefers those. We stayed with my wife and family and were very comfortable. Recommended if you want a real Japanese style experience.

The room was spacious, the staff friendly, and the location and garden beautiful. The food was pretty good and the price reasonable. Hairdryers and TVs could use an upgrade, but we had a very nice stay.