Nakanosawa Onsen Bandai Nishimuraya

The area around Nishimuraya is tucked among historic mountains, with fresh air all year, and ski resorts in winter. Fukushima is Japan's third-largest prefecture. This is a great town for experiencing an authentic historic Japanese onsen town, with plenty to do locally. The natural Onsen, discovered around 1600, is wonderful for relaxing and detoxing and is said to have many healing properties. There are also excellent local sake and fresh ingredients grown in the surrounding mountains for breakfast and dinner. Hinodeya serves local vegan tempura manju. Highly recommended!

The owner was friendly, and I had a relaxing, comfortable room with a 270-degree view of the garden. I'm not sure whether they upgraded my room. I enjoyed the onzen, though it wasn't the best open-air onzen around here. I'd come again if I get the chance.

After getting back to the car, I noticed a strange hydrogen sulfide smell. There hadn't been much smell in the bath, but more than 30 minutes after bathing I could smell it on my skin. I smelled my arm and, sure enough, it smelled of hydrogen sulfide. Why was that? I'd barely noticed anything at first. Could someone in a higher position explain? On October 26, 2024, I stopped at Nakanosawa Onsen Bandai Nishimuraya on my way back to Mie Prefecture, after seeing the autumn leaves on the Bandai-Azuma Skyline and filling up at Okamoto Self-Service. I recognized the building from photos, checked my map of free-flowing hot springs and the opening hours, then went in for a bath. The hot spring water reminded me of the famous Yubatake hot spring in Kusatsu, Gunma, but without the hydrogen sulfide smell. It was hot, my favorite kind, with pale blue deposits and a faintly acidic taste. I enjoyed the two indoor baths. A couple was heading for the open-air bath, so I skipped it. The water was even better than I'd heard.

The building is showing its age, but I think that gives it charm. The spring water is milky white, smells sulfurous, and has a pH of 1.9-2.1. It isn't diluted or heated. Soaking while watching the snow fall was incredibly relaxing. I visited on a weekday in November, when the first snow of the season started falling. By the next morning the roads were icy. The food was delicious and the hospitality excellent. This is one of the inns I'd definitely like to stay at again.