Ochiairo

There's not much to do right around the hotel, though we did hike up to a waterfall and stop at a coffee shop. The hotel sits beside a beautiful river in the countryside, and our big, really nice room looked out over the trees and garden. The spa area is wonderful, with separate spaces for men and women, and there's also a great sauna overlooking the river. Staff were plentiful, and they have an open bar all the time. Dinner was a seven-course meal with fish, meat and lots more in between.

The outdoor onsen was a magical spot. With birds all around, the river in the background and a little sunshine, it was easy to forget everything else. We were especially lucky that our room, Tokonatsu, had a brand new outdoor onsen bathtub right in the garden. Hard to choose where to soak first. The food was delicious too, and the staff were super friendly and helpful. Calm sets in as soon as you arrive. The entrance and hallways smell lovely, and the craftsmanship and history throughout the building are striking. There was a fireplace, bottomless champagne, massage chairs and a basement arcade with retro games. Ochiairo was even more beautiful than I expected. I'd recommend booking two nights to really relax and enjoy it. Pack light, too, since the pajamas and daily japanese lounge wear are very comfortable, and you won't need much else.

At times, staying here felt as close to heaven on earth as I can imagine. The most magical place I've ever stayed. If you're considering a room, don't hesitate. I can't recommend this beautiful ryokan highly enough.

We got engaged in Ochiairo! It's the most beautiful hotel I've experienced in Japan, and quiet luxury at its finest.