Yukairou Kikuya

I stayed in the annex, reached by crossing a little suspension bridge, which was quite fun. They even have free popsicles by the public bath. The early morning outdoor private onsen was a real treat, almost empty and with an amazing atmosphere. My room at Tokino-Kairo Kikuya in Shuzenji also had its own private hot spring bath. Breakfast came in a private room, which suited me as a solo traveler. This is an old ryokan dating back to the Meiji era, but it's been beautifully maintained, and the service was warm and attentive. There are old photos along the corridors, including a reminder that Natsume Sōseki stayed here for more than two months while recuperating. Kikuya completely matched my idea of what a hot spring ryokan should be.

The kaiseki dinner and breakfast were delicious, and both the private and public onsens felt serene. Our room was spacious, too. A wonderful, relaxing stay at this gem in Shuzenji. I'd recommend it to anyone visiting.

We were very happy with our three days here. The rooms had fresh air, and the baths and service were great. Free beers from a machine in the hall were a great extra. Team Yukairou, though, please get a carpet cleaner for the lobby! It looks like people have been walking in from a ski onsen 😉💪🏼

The building is large and spread out, so wandering through it and enjoying the views was part of the fun. There are several public and private baths to choose from, and at night you can get beer and soda on tap, plus ice cream and milk after the onsen. The nearby town is quaint and lovely, though quite small, so there may not be much to do on a two- or three-day trip. Restaurants nearby often close early, around 4 pm, and the few open for dinner shut by 6 pm, so keep that in mind. I wasn't a fan of the dinner, especially at 9000 yen, though the service and presentation were excellent. The taste just didn't quite come together for me. Still, it was a lovely traditional ryokan experience, with excellent service.