Beniya Mukayu

The setting felt magical, and the food was delicious. It was both luxurious and completely zen, one of the most special places I’ve stayed. I only wish we’d had two nights there.

I’m not sure why it’s listed as three stars, because it’s a lovely luxury stay that never feels pretentious. The grounds are gorgeous and everything is spotless, from the baths to the beautiful linens. The staff were lovely throughout, and both the food and service were outstanding. We’ve stayed at two other ryokans, and this one is top notch.

We visited Beniya Mukayu Ryokan in October of 2024, hoping it would be a treat for the family, and it really was. You can tell it’s a family business by the care and pride they put into hosting guests. My mother knows her hot springs and was especially impressed by how clean everything was and how much attention they give to detail. Everyone was welcoming, thoughtful, and helpful, and that personal touch made our stay lovely. Many staff members spoke excellent English. The rooms and the ryokan were beautiful, comfortable, spacious, clean, and well appointed. Meals were exquisite, made with fresh local ingredients and presented beautifully. Hairy crab was in season during our visit, which was a real treat. There were snacks available too, so nobody was left hungry between meals. The team also made planning easy. They were quick, thorough, and courteous over email while we arranged spa treatments, menu add-ons, and shuttle bookings. Next time I’d book longer and try some of the local experiences that can be arranged through the ryokan. We’re looking forward to coming back after such a luxurious, outstanding stay.

We stayed in the very first room, with a nice mix of Western and Eastern style and an onsen set down a step. The bed was fluffy and a delight, and the separate toilet made it easy for people sharing the room to take turns using the bath. There’s a useful wet bar with a sink, non-alcoholic drinks, plenty of drinkware, and a small snack replenished daily. The ryokan provides yukata and jackets, as well as full traditional wear, including tabi. Some guests wear it and some don’t. Three libraries give you places to sit and take in the views, and the garden is walkable in season. We were there as spring was approaching. It was snowing, with the sakura just starting to bloom around the peaceful forest. There are only a few rooms, each with its own private onsen. The bath and face products are generous and thoughtfully chosen to fit the ryokan’s philosophy, though if your skin is sensitive or you want something more hydrating and less herbal-smelling, bring your own. I’d have liked another heater in the traditional room with bamboo floors where you sit and look at the garden, thicker and more plentiful towels, and some repairs to the peeling plaster in wet areas. Dinner is an experience in itself, so take part if you can. Several artfully presented courses arrive at a lovely pace, with floor-to-ceiling windows making you feel part of the scene. Breakfast was simpler but just as happy. The room is turned down while you’re at dinner. The staff are earnest, kind, thoughtful, and eager to help. Alessandro’s team really shines under his hard work and leadership. They made me feel welcome and seen, which was especially meaningful as a Black woman. There’s a strong international mix among the staff. Watching them, I got the sense they’re deeply committed to creating an experience rooted in traditional Japanese culture, with a quiet joy that reminded me of the monks who once lived and worked here. It was beautiful to witness and feel part of. A small bamboo forest nearby was out of reach for us in the snow, but visit if you can. A staircase and funicular right beside the hotel lead into town. It’s a small place, and Allesandro and the staff can point out lunch spots and shops on a helpful map. Many close on unusual days, which is part of the fun. Maybe it was the off season, but I liked how quiet town was, without crowds of instattravellers. In the room there’s a book about the ryokan and Japanese culture, featuring Ms. Sachiko, the current generational manager, and her husband. Read it to get a better feel for Japanese culture and this ryokan’s owners and ethos. Then settle into your onsen beneath the stars or the deep blue sky, with sakura branches, clouds, or wild wind around you. The ryokan encourages you to feel at one with nature, both nothing and everything. It felt beautiful and healing, a spiritual place. If you can, splurge on two nights with people you love. It’s worth it.