Akatsukien

The food alone makes me want to return. I tried dobushiru for the first time, and they turned the leftovers into rice porridge for breakfast. I poured it over white rice and it was so good I ate two bowls, even after having ozoni. I only wish I could have taken some of that soup home. The monkfish liver and John Dory sashimi were the best I’ve ever had, too. If you love fish, book now. I stayed on January 3rd, on a super moon night. The moonlight across the sea was beautiful from the room, which had an ocean view. The rooms and facilities were spotless and well cared for. The staff were all lovely, especially the woman who helped me. The hot spring is always reserved for private use, so I could relax without a crowd. The water was excellent and kept me feeling warm for a long time. I’d love to come back, even though it’s only been five days since my stay. A smaller-portion plan for seniors like us would be nice.

I’d like to come back in another season. In summer they serve lavish dishes made with local fish, and it seems you can also come for monkfish hotpot at lunch without staying overnight. Akatsukien makes dobu-jiru with homemade miso and just vegetable liquid from daikon radish and green onion. I’d had monkfish hotpot at Kitaibaraki inns every year, but this was my first dobu-jiru, and its flavor was so elegant compared with the hotel versions. Dinner included so much food that I couldn’t finish it, so I was glad to have the rice porridge at breakfast. The baths come in large and small sizes. Room reservation cards are posted on a whiteboard, and what used to be separate men’s and women’s baths can now be booked for private use. The hot spring water comes from a nearby source and flows in abundantly, making the bath wonderfully warm. The bathroom has plenty of amenities, plus hot and cold water, coffee, and tea, so I felt well looked after. The monkfish hotpot was served alongside an already luxurious guesthouse meal. The elegant dobushiru, the natural hot spring water, the thoughtful restrooms, and the staff’s hospitality all made this feel like a five-star guesthouse.

The food, baths, rooms, and owner are all wonderful, and you can see how hard the owner works. The dobu soup is especially delicious. At dinner, the older staff member didn’t know much about sake. She recommended something that wasn’t available, then had to tell guests there was none. When I asked for water, she gave everyone paper cups, and she didn’t serve tea. She seemed overworked, forgetful, and lacking basic sense. I’d rather the younger staff handle dinner. The middle-aged man working breakfast was incredibly good, and I wish he’d be on dinner duty instead. The teapot and teacups in the room smelled fishy, so I couldn’t drink tea. Staff training seems difficult.

The shared toilets and bathrooms were fine because the staff were considerate and tried hard to make sure nobody had a bad experience. I also tried mexicali sashimi for the first time. There was a group who had come all the way to the northernmost part of Ibaraki. I ordered the dobushiru plan, and the amount was huge. I couldn’t even get to the monkfish liver porridge that night, so I had it for breakfast instead. It tasted good in the morning, though I think it would have been more exciting the evening before. The first dobushiru I tried was rich and even better than I expected. The monkfish liver was mild, and the best I’ve ever eaten, even if it isn’t strongly flavored to begin with.