Takamine Onsen

The open air bath among the Takamine alps is the highlight. Getting in means going from excruciatingly cold air, especially in minus degree temperatures, to exquisite warmth, then an amazing view. The outdoor bath is open to guests from 7am to 5pm. There are separate baths for women and men. Take the red basket for ladies or blue for men from the waiting area, and wait if none are available. Change into the outdoor slippers, then pour a bucket of bath water over yourself before getting in. At least look like you're giving yourself a quick wash. The Japanese-style rooms have futon and cushions on tatami, with no chairs, beds, or TVs. There are seating areas in the shared spaces, and Goto-san is happy to share what he knows. He gives daily talks about birds, stars, and the health benefits of the spring water. Even if going outside feels daunting, there are four indoor baths, two each for men and women, rich in magnesium, calcium, and natrium/sodium. Goto-san encourages guests to drink the spring water, which is said to help with constipation, skin conditions, and diabetes. The bird watching area is a good place to learn about Alpine birds and other wildlife. Hideo Goto, the owner of Takamine Onsen, waved goodbye as we left. His love for the environment and the hot spring, his interest in educating guests, and his outlook on life are inspiring. After a gas fire in 1975, he gradually rebuilt the lodge without electricity or water, and could work only in summer. He chose wood over concrete and built it strongly, with triple glazed windows. My previous visit was in autumn, when I joined a four-hour guided trip to Ikenodaira Wetlands, a pond inside a volcanic crater. There are well-marked trails from the lodge, gum boots and snow shoes are provided, and the ski slopes are within easy reach. The lady I met in the bath asked if we could talk. It was her third visit, and mine too. There are a lot of repeat visitors. Takamine Onsen is one of 150 hot springs selected for the preservation of hot springs society. There is a stamp booklet: collect ten stamps within three years and earn a free stay at any of the 150 hot springs, none of which will disappoint.

The dinner was homely and satisfying, especially the pork and sliced apple miso grill cooked at the table. When rain canceled stargazing, the owner showed a cozy slideshow of the seasons around the area. It made the evening feel personal. The common areas have a rustic, outdoorsy feel, while the guest rooms seem freshly maintained and renovated in recent years. The milky white onsen water was silky, with a clear mineral smell. It was hot enough to soothe but cool enough to stay in. Clouds hid the mountain view during our gray, misty weekend, though the panorama must be beautiful on a clear day. The place was full even in that weather, which says something about its reputation. It's up at 2000 meters and seems well placed for hiking when the weather allows. Sleep wasn't as comfortable as I'd hoped because the futons were very thin. Breakfast was plain, too. Still, the hospitality and baths made me want to come back to see the stars and walk the trails. The rooms were clean and well maintained. I'd give it 4/5. Features: indoor and outdoor baths; dinner's pork, apple, and miso highlight; simple breakfast; warm, thoughtful staff; cozy atmosphere; view obscured by clouds on our visit.

Nature outings like beginner treks and stargazing events are held here. The lodge is a simple place in the Takamine Plateau, at 2000m. Its signature open-air bath has milky white water and dramatic mountain views, so hot spring fans should enjoy it.

The outside bath had a gorgeous view, and the star watching after dinner was another highlight. The inside baths were relaxing too, both the small and big one. I enjoyed chatting with other guests while we soaked. Dinner and breakfast were included in the room price, which might seem high but felt worth it. I wish we'd had time to book a trekking tour or go hiking. I saw that lots of equipment can be rented for free. The staff didn't speak English, so communicating was a bit complicated, but it worked out in the end. The hotel is very close to a ski place, and some routes were blocked, which made it hard to find. We stopped at another hotel, and they helped call. The hotel bus kindly came to pick us up. I'd highly recommend a mountain-view room. Waking up to that view was stunning.