Lake Akan Tsuruga Wings

The onsen was enjoyable, though perhaps a little overhyped. I tried the open-air bath on the 8th floor and the one on the 1st floor of the sister hotel, and preferred the indoor one. Even in the off-season, both were busy. Our room had a great view, but was too small for four people. It got extremely warm, and the en-suite was terrible. We hardly used it, since there was a downstairs toilet and we could bathe at the onsen. We stayed one night to use the onsen and see Lake Akan on the drive back to Sapporo. Cultural tourism isn’t really our thing, so we skipped the Ainu attractions, though someone interested in that could probably enjoy a longer stay. The night walk was nice, but not worth 3,000-3,500 yen to us. I don’t usually expect English-speaking staff, and we had someone who spoke Japanese reasonably well. Still, having no English speaker at the check-in desk in a tourist area was baffling. The staff were friendly and tried to help, but seemed short-handed. We also had to pay for the shuttle to the parking area.

The baths were incredible, and the rooftop one at night in the snow was a particular highlight. Our room and its bath were just right, and the food was fantastic. Everyone was amazing, with at least one English-speaking staff member around. We were welcomed at the door, had our bags taken, and were offered hot tea and snacks while checking in. Utterly wonderful.

The facilities are a big part of what makes a stay here special. Tsuruga Wings guests can use everything across the connected hotels: three onsens, bars, gardens, shops, shuttle buses, couriers, and restaurants. The two onsens at Yuku no Sato are spectacular, like something from Ghibli’s "Spirited Away." Access alternates daily, so both men and women can experience each one. The onsens and restaurants also look out over the lake. In winter, fireworks over the frozen lake can be watched from the onsen, buffet restaurant, or garden. It’s magical. I came to Akanko-Onsen because of the lobby gallery of Takeki Fujito, arranged by the Tsuruga group CEO. I was thrilled to finally see his work, and glad that Tsuruga hotels also have a gallery for another great Ainu master carver, Masamitsu Takeguchi. The gallery at sister hotel Yuku no Sato Tsuruga showcases both artists, who lived and worked in the nearby Ainu Kotan (village). They exhibited in Japan and internationally, and have since passed away. Their artistic and Ainu cultural legacy lives on through their sons in the family stores. I especially appreciated the way Tsuruga Wings uses the Ainu language throughout the hotel, giving guests a chance to learn. It’s a subtle but supportive way to raise awareness of Ainu culture. I applaud it and hope we can do something similar in Australia. The hotel is about a two-minute walk from Ainu Kotan. Please visit and talk with the owners, they know a lot. Ainu Ikor theatre is about four minutes away; see "The Lost Kamuy," it’s powerful. You can also take a cultural tour with "Anytime Ainutime" tours. The staff were wonderful throughout my stay. Nakamura-San at reception was kind and professional, Masayoshi Kato- San made me an excellent bespoke mocktail each night, and Yasuhiko Nishiwaki- San at the hotel store helped arrange a courier for my luggage. Thank you to everyone. I highly recommend staying here for the nature, Ainu culture, gallery, service, and facilities. I’ll be back!

Breakfast and dinner were included in our stay, and there were several restaurants to choose from. The onsen was amazing too. The hotel is apparently part of the same company as the one next door, so guests can use its facilities as well, effectively getting access to two hotels for the price of one. Just be aware that there’s a parking fee and an onsen tax.