Dozen Ryokan

We were paying 14000 yen a night, but this felt more like a youth hostel with tatami mats than a ryokan. We’ve stayed at more than 30 ryokan during our trips to Japan, and this one was far from that standard. We booked three nights and left after just one. When we told reception, the staff member only shrugged and apologized. Reception closes at 6pm, leaving guests on their own, and no one offered a way to improve the conditions or a refund. There was nowhere to get anything until the cafe opened at 8am, and the prices there were crazy high. No tea or coffee was provided in the room or common area. The shared wash area is in the hallway, with three sinks. My wife had to brush her hair between a man shaving and another brushing his teeth, since there was no mirror in our room where she could do it privately. The room windows had no coverings, so streetlights came in, and daylight was worse once the sun rose. The walls were paper thin: we heard people talking next door until after midnight, and doors banged all night.

The old house makes it easy to hear everything, even people breathing, and I’m awake close to midnight again. This is the sixth night in a row that guests downstairs have started talking and laughing really loudly at 11pm. It’s been different people each time, so maybe I’m just unlucky, or maybe a lot of guests are inconsiderate. Sleeping here hasn’t been easy with neighbors like that. I do love the place otherwise. The house is beautiful, the bed is very comfortable, and the staff are kind and extremely helpful. The location is great for day trips from Kyoto.

Breakfast choices are limited, but what I tried tasted good. The walls are very thin, so you’ll hear other guests, including after midnight, and staff are only there during certain hours. Still, it’s a good budget option if you want a bit of an authentic Japanese feel.

I liked being outside Kyoto’s main tourist area. The neighborhood is peaceful, with nice local shops and restaurants, and it’s easy to reach the center by metro or taxi. The Dozen Ryokan itself is simple and calm, with a little garden and a lovely cafe. Everyone on staff was incredibly kind and helpful. I’d definitely recommend staying here in Kyoto.