Nakanoyu Onsen Ryokan

We arrived in the rain, and the staff even gave us umbrellas to use at the bus stop when we left. Everyone was so friendly, and the service was top notch. A shuttle took us to and from the bus, too. Our room was very clean, and both dinner and breakfast were plentiful. After breakfast, we enjoyed coffee in the beautiful lounge. When we checked in, someone met us at the door and took our bags. The woman at reception was especially friendly and spoke English. She showed us around and explained how to use the onsen, which was our first time. We stayed one night after hiking and had a wonderful stay.

We spent two nights here and loved the traditional ryokan experience. The tatami floors were lovely, and the futons were very comfortable. Staff were considerate and kind, and we appreciated the shuttle and well-appointed building. The traditional Japanese meals were delicious and generous. The scenery and setting felt magical, quiet, and almost transcendent. We went to the nearby kamikochi area during the day, then relaxed in the clean onsen afterward. The water was lovely, and its smell wasn’t unpleasant. The facilities were good for unwinding, and my friend, who has fairly large tattoos, was able to use the onsen without any issue.

The reception staff were excellent. They explained nearby sights using a map, along with the pickup and drop-off points and, crucially, the cutoff times. I saw signs at Kamikochi station later warning people not to miss the last bus or they’d be stranded, so I left myself extra time at the station and nearby attractions. They also helped retrieve my phone after I left it in a public taxi from Kamikochi station, and I’m very grateful. I paid extra for the upgraded meals and enjoyed a delicious, authentic Japanese dinner and breakfast. Dinner was served in my room, and the server was very courteous and did his best to explain the food in English. At the end he bowed to us on his knees. I felt uncomfortable with that, though it may be a Japanese tradition, so I bowed back. A couple of drawbacks didn’t bother us much. The room had a lingering food smell when we checked in, probably because dinners are served there. Because of the location, we had to rely on the free shuttle, then take a public bus or taxi to nearby sights. Staying farther up by Kappa-bashi bridge might have made it easier to manage travel time. Food options were only available at nearby attractions or in towns farther down the road.

It’s right by the Mount Yake trail head, so you can set off hiking from the door. The shuttle into Kamikochi and back, as well as to Matsumoto, was great, and there’s a packed lunch option for days out on the trail. They also have delicious, ice-cold beers. Tomoko san was helpful with my questions both before and during the stay, and the staff overall were so friendly and kind. Breakfast and dinner were varied and very good, especially the beef sukiyaki. I also enjoyed the outdoor area of the onsen. One small thing, the room can get bright early in the morning, so bring an eye mask if that bothers you. A lovely ryokan just outside Kamikochi.