Oiwakeya Ryokan

We had a lovely ryokan stay, including local-style breakfasts and dinners that were delicious and enjoyable. There was probably too much food, though, and it was hard to finish everything at dinner. The private baths were fantastic and highly recommended. I tried the public baths too, and those were good as well. Wearing the traditional Yukata around was fun.

Our family had a wonderful time here. The rooms were beautiful, the meals memorable, and the service both kind and impeccable. Take a little time to learn the etiquette, especially for using the onsen, and you'll have a lovely stay. Getting there by metropolitan bus is straightforward. From the train station, follow signs to the Matsumoto bus terminal and take the Utsukushigahara Onsen line to Tsujido, directly across from the hotel. Google Maps may tell you to get off at Araibashi, but stay on as the bus loops around. Otherwise you'd have an unnecessary walk down a narrow road. A note on paying: board at the rear and take a ticket from the machine on your right, which shows where you got on. The screen at the front displays the fare for the next stop. When leaving through the front door, drop the ticket and fare in the slot. It was between 300 and 400 yen when I wrote this. The drivers are kind and helpful, so don't panic. Soon you'll be enjoying the onsen and a truly Japanese experience.

The staff were friendly, the food very good, and the room was nice. There are also lovely little gardens with fish. You can pay extra to try local wines by the glass. The private hot tub can be rented and is quite good, with a huge indoor tub and a small outdoor one, though the outdoor tub is too shallow. My room had an old smoky smell. At this price, some other ryokans have a hot tub in every room, but this one doesn't. The location isn't great.

My wife and I stayed one night on 20/04/17 while visiting from London, and it became a part of our Japan trip we'll never forget. We had walked easily into town for part of the afternoon, so don't let the distance from the station put you off. Email them and they'll explain how to get there; it was easy. The hospitality, service, meals, and whole atmosphere were top class. My wife is vegetarian, and the chef prepared what was apparently the establishment's first vegetarian menu. It was mind-blowing. We'd also stayed at another ryokan that cost almost three times as much, and had a 3 Michelin Star meal costing more than double this place, including the upgraded GU meal we had here. This place still held its own against both. I'd happily return to Japan for another stay.