Ryokan Sendan

I could settle in and enjoy the meal in the traditional Japanese setting, and the food was delicious. The towels did have a strong fabric softener smell, though, which was the one letdown.

There were no problems with the service or the timing between dishes, but my recent meal while sightseeing left me less impressed than my last visit. Before, every dish had stood out in both appearance and flavor. This time, I found myself thinking “that was delicious” less often, and the ingredients seemed to have lost their aroma and taste. It felt more like an ordinary place serving food just to fill you up, which was disappointing. I wondered if that had changed when it went from a prestigious Japanese restaurant to a ryokan. Prices have gone up, but the food didn’t feel worth the cost and no longer made the same impression. I hope they can bring back those memorable meals. One small practical issue: the wooden shoehorn was thick and awkward to use. A thinner one would work better.

The location is peaceful, away from the main Dogo Onsen area, and handy for Ishite-ji Temple. I find the temple too powerful and scary to visit, but there’s a convenience store and a lovely, reasonably priced coffee shop nearby that roasts its own beans. The cleaning was immaculate, the renovations had removed any feeling of age, and the small bathroom was clean. The food had a nostalgic, elegant, homey flavor, with portions, quality, and taste aimed at adults. It may not suit people with childish palates. The changing room was cold. There was no room refrigerator or water heater, though staff would bring hot water in a kettle if asked, and the TV was small. What put me off was being asked where I was going every time I left the room. I felt watched and managed by the staff. It reminded me of a love hotel where I might have had some experience at my age. Since this was advertised as a traditional Japanese restaurant and inn, I don’t think it was very good.

The bath’s hot spring water was fantastic, and the fugu was the best I’ve ever eaten. I stayed a few years ago, though, and the thin futon plus the very old air conditioner left me extremely thirsty the next morning. For a fairly upscale place, I hope they’ll improve those things. Fix that and it’d be a perfect five stars.